Models > ALW880QAW

ALW880QAW Amana Washer - Overview

Sections of the ALW880QAW

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Thrust Washer – Part Number: WP233520
Thrust Washer
PartSelect #: PS11740482
Manufacturer #: WP233520
This washer is 3/4 inches in diameter.
$10.11
  In Stock
Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP596669
Hose Clamp
PartSelect #: PS11743008
Manufacturer #: WP596669
This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
$11.68
  In Stock
Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP285655
Hose Clamp
PartSelect #: PS11740613
Manufacturer #: WP285655
This hose clamp is sold individually.
$14.11
  In Stock
Screw, 8/18 x 3/8 – Part Number: WP90767
Screw, 8/18 x 3/8
PartSelect #: PS11746840
Manufacturer #: WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
$6.88
  In Stock
Adjustable Leveling Leg – Part Number: 22003428
Adjustable Leveling Leg
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS2021026
Manufacturer #: 22003428
Sold Individually. This adjustable leveling leg comes with a stop nut.
$23.49
  In Stock
Retaining Ring – Part Number: WP23748
Retaining Ring
PartSelect #: PS11740487
Manufacturer #: WP23748
This metal retaining ring is well under an inch long. Use it for your Maytag brand clothes washer or your clothes dryer.
$17.27
  In Stock
Inlet Hose - 5 FT – Part Number: WP89503
Inlet Hose - 5 FT
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS11746820
Manufacturer #: WP89503
This hose can handle hot or cold water and is five feet long.
$27.37
  In Stock
Lid Hinge Mounting Screw – Part Number: WPW10119828
Lid Hinge Mounting Screw
PartSelect #: PS11748588
Manufacturer #: WPW10119828
Sold individually. NOTE: The color on the screw may not be the same as the image, but will still function the same.
$11.68
  In Stock
Spring Retaining Clip – Part Number: WP22001650
Spring Retaining Clip
PartSelect #: PS11739294
Manufacturer #: WP22001650
This front cover spring retaining clip is not quite an inch long. It is made entirely of metal and is used for some washing machines.
$14.11
  In Stock
Drain Pump – Part Number: 27001233
Drain Pump
PartSelect #: PS1594294
Manufacturer #: 27001233
This pump is attached to the motor and helps expel water from the washing machine. It is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time.
  No Longer Available
V-Style Spin and Agitate Belt - 28-3/4 inches long – Part Number: WP27001006
V-Style Spin and Agitate Belt - 28-3/4 inches long
PartSelect #: PS11740577
Manufacturer #: WP27001006
This v-style spin and agitate belt is 28-3/4 inches long and half of an inch wide. It is all black in color and made entirely of rubber.
$85.46
  In Stock
Drain Hose with Rubber Elbow – Part Number: WP40053901
Drain Hose with Rubber Elbow
PartSelect #: PS11742254
Manufacturer #: WP40053901
This hose attaches to the pump to help remove the water out of the washer. 7 feet in length.
$69.91
  In Stock

Questions And Answers for ALW880QAW

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Thomas
March 4, 2023
What year is this model, serial number is S0006192217
For model number ALW880QAW
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Hello Thomas, Thank you for your inquiry. Using the model and serial number, we show the year of manufacturer as June of 2000. We hope this helps you.

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Dave
December 16, 2023
The drum spins easy clockwise but locks up when it spins counter clockwise. What should I look at? The belt burned up so I changed the belt and the idler pully. Thanks
For model number ALW880QAW
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Hi Dave, thank you for your inquiry. According to our research, you may need to check the timer, part number PS2040999, to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!

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Common Symptoms of the ALW880QAW

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Leaking
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Noisy
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Burning smell
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Will not agitate
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Will not drain
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No hot or cold water
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Spins slowly
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Spin cycle sounded like freight train
Spin cycle sounded like freight train, bad bearing, apparently they all fail the same way, this revised parts kit should prevent premature failure in future.

The following is easy for an experienced mechanic of any type, fully doable by an accomplished DYI'er, between this writeup and the kit instructions (which I do not fully follow) you should be fine. Probably avoid this task if you aren't either of the aforementioned.

Remove lower pannel, top pannel, lift top back. Remove fill hose to outer tub, clear tube to outer tub. Remove entire outer cabinet from base, exposing base and tub. Remove augur assy by popping off cap removing inner bolt, lifting augur out. Remove top of outer tub cap assy by pressing down where each latch is and gently prying latch open with screwdriver. Remove bolts holding in inner tub and remove inner tub. Unscrew the pastic nut on transmission shaft using channel locks (counterclockwise from top), don't worry about destroying this part since a new one is in the kit. Remove (pry off with your hands, don't worry about breaking it) the 'lint filter' (looks like a frisbee) and trash it. Remove the large (about 8")aluminum hub (that the inner tub bolts to) by unscrewing counterclockwise. No special tool needed, just use air hammer if available against one of the T shaped castings to get it loose, otherwise use a drift and hammer same way. Don't worry about messing up the part since a new one is in the kit. Remove the outer tub drain hose, remove six screws holding outer tub, lift outer tub out. Turn outer tub upside down and use a wide crowbar/nail puller to CAREFULLY pry out the bearing/seal assy from the bottom of the tub. Take your time working your way completely around the bearing/seal several times so it doesn't get too crooked while removing it. Clean everything thoroughly. Inspect the area of the bottom of outer tub where you removed the bearing/seal. If all is well and there are no gouges, get it wet with clean water and then carefully press the new bearing/seal assy in with the heal of the palm of your hand, working your way around it so it doesn't get crooked while pressing in. Do not use sealer (unless there are gouges) and do not hammer this. Make sure it is fully seated in the outer tub. Do reverse to put everything back together. I tightened the aluminum hub the same way I loosened it, no problem. There are some rubber plugs in the kit to install in some holes in the tub, scrape or clean any gunk off the inner tub around these holes so the rubber plugs will seat properly. Carefully snug the plastic nut with channelocks by gripping it from the top as opposed to the side (so the fins don't break). Note there is a small o-ring on the transmission shaft to change before replacing the augur. Nice and quiet after the repair, hopefully the new kit (and trashing the 'lint filter') makes it last longer... LOL, it's a bit disturbing seeing the gunk under the augur knowing that has been there all this time while 'cleaning' the laundry! I'll probably start removing the augur every so often to clean under there.
Parts Used:
Triple Lip Seal and Bearing Kit
  • Mike from Houston, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Socket set
99 of 107 people found this instruction helpful.
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Water leaking on floor from "mysterious place underneath washer"
Water was leaking on the floor during the wash cycle and especially during draining of the washer. I removed the front panel at ground level and watched while draining after a rinse.

I t was obvious that water was spraying from a hole in the rubber end of the hose (the hose is a fused assembly of a plastic section and a rubber section).

So, I finished draining, removed the hose (required pliers to squeeze off a hose clamp).

Upon inspecting the hose, it was also apparent that the hole was caused by rubbing against a support bracket for the motor. This should not happen, but it did because the plastic standoff supposed to keep the hose away from the bracket was installed 180 degrees backwards.

So, I simply replaced the hose and turned the bracket around to the correct orientation.

Everything worked as planned and my repair cost was much less than if I had called someone out.
Parts Used:
Drain Hose with Rubber Elbow
  • Bryan from Chicago, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
50 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
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tub seal/bearing failed due to dirt
First removed the front panels and tilted the top back.Disconnected the electrical connector to the motor,removed the cabinet base screws and slid the entire cabinet away from the interior after disconnecting the clear tube and the water feed to the panel.removed bolt inside agitator and remove agitator.removed the plastic hold down center nut with channel lock pliers.remove top cover from outer tub(pry out over tabs with screw driver).remove 4 bolts holding inner tub and remove tub.remove inner bottom tub support with pliers(screws off).remove 6 machine screws from frame to bottom of plastic outer tub and remove tub.Carefully pry seal/bearing out of tub from the bottom(remember its just plastic).install is just the reverse of the dissassembly.Note: This is the second seal/bearing for this washing machine in less than 2 yrs..I work in the Site developement/construction field and my clothes get extremely dirty.The dirt is being held under the inner tub support and driven down thru the seals and into the bearing(great design).This go around the intsructions called for the removal of the plastic lint filter under the tub support which I believe was a large part of the problem.I hope so.I'm not going to spend $90 every 2 yrs. on this machine.Good luck.
Parts Used:
Triple Lip Seal and Bearing Kit Mixing Valve to Tub Hose
  • John from Salford, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
49 of 59 people found this instruction helpful.
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