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ASD2575BRS01
ASD2575BRS01 Amana Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the ASD2575BRS01
[Viewing 13 of 13]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS884734
Manufacturer #: 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$37.19
In Stock
Lower Door Closing Cam
PartSelect #: PS11739042
Manufacturer #: WP2182179
The lower door closing cam is used in refrigerator doors, it can be located on the fresh food side or the freezer side. It helps hold the door open. This cam is made out of plastic, so it might crack ...
$9.80
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Shelf Bin - White
PartSelect #: PS11739091
Manufacturer #: WP2187172
This refrigerator door shelf bin, also known as the door bin, or sometimes just a "bucket", is an authentic manufacturer-certified part made of white plastic and is easy to install. It is used to hold...
$47.93
In Stock
Refrigerator Ice and Water Filter
PartSelect #: PS11701542
Manufacturer #: EDR1RXD1
This is an OEM replacement ice and water filter for your refrigerator. In side-by-side refrigerators, it is found in the top right corner or the bottom left grille. In bottom-freezer refrigerators, th...
$93.78
In Stock
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer With Handle
PartSelect #: PS11739122
Manufacturer #: WP2188664
This OEM, clear convertible meat drawer can be used to store meats or vegetables and is designed for the lower portion of your refrigerator, generally. It has its own cold air duct to allow cold air f...
$85.67
In Stock
Touch-Up Paint - White
PartSelect #: PS385132
Manufacturer #: 72017
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$10.18
In Stock
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS11750673
Manufacturer #: WPW10225581
If ice is building up in your freezer or if your freezer is getting too warm on the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal thermostat.
$59.23
In Stock
Refrigerator Slide-Out Shelf with Glass
PartSelect #: PS11751713
Manufacturer #: WPW10276348
$250.92
In Stock
Refrigerator Compressor Start Relay
PartSelect #: PS11750123
Manufacturer #: WPW10197428
This compressor start relay is for refrigerators. The compressor start relay attaches to the compressor and helps start the compressor motor. Safely store any food that could deteriorate while the pow...
$97.06
In Stock
Crisper Cover with Glass
PartSelect #: PS4082908
Manufacturer #: W10508993
This part is also known as a shelf frame. This drawer cover is for refrigerators.
Drawer cover has rail brackets under the cover that hold the drawer and allow the drawer to slide in and out on th...
$187.08
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS11757021
Manufacturer #: WPW10661886
This mounting screw is a genuine OEM replacement part for the door handle in your refrigerator. If you are having trouble shutting the refrigerator door, or opening it, replacing this screw can help s...
$16.17
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS11742755
Manufacturer #: WP489483
This screw is sold individually.
$16.63
In Stock
Questions And Answers for ASD2575BRS01
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
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Freda
November 22, 2022
What size is this model? How many cubic feet?
For model number ASD2575BRS01
Hello Freda, thank you for reaching out. Your Amana refrigerator has the following dimensions: width 35 1/2 inches, depth 34 5/8 inches, and height 68 7/8 inches. Its total capacity is 25.5 cubic feet. We hope this information helps!
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Harlo
May 25, 2022
Few and small ice cubes, very little water dispenses, can't hear the water inlet valve operate when asking for water at the freezer door
For model number ASD2575BRS01
Hello Harlo, Thank you for the question. This is normally an indication the Water Valve needs to be replaced. The Valve can be tested with a Multimeter. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting to test for continuity. Place each of the multitester's leads on a terminal. Your multitester should display a reading between 200 and 500 ohms. Closely examine your water inlet valve. The exact ohm resistance rating you should test for may be marked on the valve. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
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Related Parts:
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Common Symptoms of the ASD2575BRS01
[Viewing 21 of 21]Door won’t open or close
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Fridge too warm
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Noisy
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Light not working
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Ice maker not making ice
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Leaking
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Clicking sound
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Freezer not defrosting
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Will Not Start
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Not dispensing water
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Frost buildup
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Fridge too cold
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Door Sweating
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Freezer too cold
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Too warm
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Fridge runs too long
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Door Bins Broke
Like always your products were ordered and came extremely fast. The installation was quick. No tools needed this time. Now we have 3 door bins where we had two broken ones. Our refrigerator is more organized than ever. Thanks again!
Parts Used:
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Eric from Hamburg, PA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
390 of 398 people
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Plastic bits dispensed from Ice Dispenser in Door
Removed Ice bin from Fridge
Removed all bolts on bin with nut driver...about six
Removed housing...be careful with spring on crusher/cube control rod
Removed C clamp on end of auger with small slotted screw driver and needle nose pliers.
Removed plastic nut on end of auger shaft
Removed Ice crusher jaws and laid them out in the correct order
Removed Ice propeller and installed new part
Put back together in opposite order
Easy
Removed all bolts on bin with nut driver...about six
Removed housing...be careful with spring on crusher/cube control rod
Removed C clamp on end of auger with small slotted screw driver and needle nose pliers.
Removed plastic nut on end of auger shaft
Removed Ice crusher jaws and laid them out in the correct order
Removed Ice propeller and installed new part
Put back together in opposite order
Easy
Parts Used:
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john from seaford, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
203 of 240 people
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Parts Used:
-
Cathy from Winter Park, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
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