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ATB1910DRW
ATB1910DRW Admiral Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the ATB1910DRW
[Viewing 10 of 10]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS884734
Manufacturer #: 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$37.19
In Stock
Replacement Ice Maker
PartSelect #: PS2121513
Manufacturer #: D7824706Q
NOTE: This replacement ice maker mechanism does NOT come with a cover, shut off arm, a wire harness, or the mounting hardware. Those must be ordered separately, or you can use the existing parts.
$176.88
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
PartSelect #: PS12728638
Manufacturer #: W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
$48.82
In Stock
Condenser Fan Motor Kit
PartSelect #: PS395284
Manufacturer #: 833697
This condenser fan motor operates in a clockwise fashion and carries carries 2W and 115V. It comes with screws, a mounting nut for the blade and a cushion. This part provides forced-air cooling for the condenser coil.
$86.76
In Stock
Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap
PartSelect #: PS11743131
Manufacturer #: WP61002112
This door shelf retainer bar end cap is almost two inches long. It is all white in color and is made entirely of plastic.
$15.31
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS12349731
Manufacturer #: W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$26.43
In Stock
Crisper Drawer Shelf Support
PartSelect #: PS2071530
Manufacturer #: 67764-1
This crisper drawer shelf support is used for many refrigerators.
No Longer Available
Water Fill Cup and Bearing
PartSelect #: PS11743318
Manufacturer #: WP628356
This icemaker water inlet cup is three inches long. It is all white in color and is made of plastic.
$51.26
In Stock
Defrost Timer - 120V 60Hz
PartSelect #: PS11743747
Manufacturer #: WP68233-3
This defrost timer will cycle for twenty-one minutes after every ten hours of run time.
The defrost timer acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cy...
$166.22
In Stock
Door Shelf Retainer Bar
PartSelect #: PS11775297
Manufacturer #: W11045462
This refrigerator door shelf trim is approximately 28 inches long. It is all white in color, and it is made entirely of metal. NOTE: The image may not be of the exact product but will function properly.
$69.62
In Stock
Questions And Answers for ATB1910DRW
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David
May 2, 2023
Does this Admiral fridge have an air filter? If so, what is the part number–please forward a link. Thank you!
David
For model number ATB1910DRW
Hi David,
Thank you for your question. There is no air filter listed for your refrigerator. We hope this helps!
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Common Symptoms of the ATB1910DRW
[Viewing 17 of 17]Ice maker not making ice
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Light not working
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Leaking
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Fridge too warm
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Noisy
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Freezer section too warm
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Fridge runs too long
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Will Not Start
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Door won’t open or close
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Freezer not defrosting
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Won’t start
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Fridge too cold
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Too warm
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determining what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determining what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
Parts Used:
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Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
805 of 893 people
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Water overflowed ice maker turnning ice bucket into solid mass of ice
My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this one. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)
Parts Used:
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Harry from Grand Ledge, MI
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
273 of 372 people
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Sometimes the condenser fan would start causing the refrigerator to overheat.
Unplug the appliance.
Removed the screws holding the back panel.
Removed the fan blade.
removed 3 screws holding the condenser fan.
Remove the 3 metal brackets attached to the fan.
(First note which studs the brackets are attached to. Attach the 3 metal brackets to the new fan. (New screws were supplied)
Cut and strip the wire about two inches from the fan.
Cut and strip the new wire. I cut the new wire in half (about 6 inches.) Connect the two wires, twist and used 2 wire nuts. Tie wrap the wire to the wire harness. Mount the new fan (three screws)
Screw the back panel back on.
Mount the new
Removed the screws holding the back panel.
Removed the fan blade.
removed 3 screws holding the condenser fan.
Remove the 3 metal brackets attached to the fan.
(First note which studs the brackets are attached to. Attach the 3 metal brackets to the new fan. (New screws were supplied)
Cut and strip the wire about two inches from the fan.
Cut and strip the new wire. I cut the new wire in half (about 6 inches.) Connect the two wires, twist and used 2 wire nuts. Tie wrap the wire to the wire harness. Mount the new fan (three screws)
Screw the back panel back on.
Mount the new
Parts Used:
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Tom from Franklin, WI
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
180 of 209 people
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