Models > C2757*0

C2757*0 Roper Cooktop - Overview

Sections of the C2757*0

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Heating Element – Part Number: WP4391960
Heating Element
PartSelect #: PS11742505
Manufacturer #: WP4391960
This element carries 5200W and 240V. Note: This element no longer includes two terminals and two adapter leads. They must be ordered separately.
  In Stock
Broil Element – Part Number: 326795
Broil Element
PartSelect #: PS340509
Manufacturer #: 326795
This five loop broil element has a hanger style mount.
  No Longer Available
Hex Nut – Part Number: WP112432
Hex Nut
PartSelect #: PS11738304
Manufacturer #: WP112432
10-32 hex - Sold Individually - Appliance originally takes 3 of this item.
  In Stock
STIRRER COVER *** – Part Number: 313563
PartSelect #: PS336493
Manufacturer #: 313563
  No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: 814349
PartSelect #: PS389189
Manufacturer #: 814349
  No Longer Available
Roper Name Plate – Part Number: 303098
Roper Name Plate
PartSelect #: PS559971
Manufacturer #: 303098
  No Longer Available
Screw 8-32x3/8`` – Part Number: 238833
Screw 8-32x3/8``
PartSelect #: PS560491
Manufacturer #: 238833
  No Longer Available
Panel, Side L.H. (Almond) – Part Number: 312453
Panel, Side L.H. (Almond)
PartSelect #: PS587532
Manufacturer #: 312453
  No Longer Available
Griddle Plate – Part Number: 321745
Griddle Plate
PartSelect #: PS600999
Manufacturer #: 321745
  No Longer Available
Support Rod-Main Top – Part Number: 315379
Support Rod-Main Top
PartSelect #: PS601074
Manufacturer #: 315379
  No Longer Available
SHIELD – Part Number: 285945
PartSelect #: PS601297
Manufacturer #: 285945
  Special Order
Screw 6-32x1/4`` – Part Number: 97220
Screw 6-32x1/4``
PartSelect #: PS601624
Manufacturer #: 97220
  No Longer Available

Questions And Answers for C2757*0

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Common Symptoms of the C2757*0

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Not Heating
Fixed by
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Dryer quit heating. Suspected heating element was open
Unplugged the 220 volt source. Disconnected the vent line from the back of the drier. Removed the six screws holding the back panel with a 1/4 inch nut driver. Tipped the drier up at a 45 degree angle against the wall to give better access to the inside. Removed the screws holding the two thermostats to the side of the heater box and laid them aside. Disconnected the two red power lines to the heater element. Removed the large screw at the top of the heater box and removed the flexible bracket holding the heater box, then lifted the heater box up and away from the drier. Removed the one screw holding the heater element inside the heater box and pulled out the old heating element. The old element was open as found using an ohmeter on the two main terminals. Threw away the old element. Removed the new heating element from the box and slid it into the heater box making sure to align the terminal bracket with the hole in the heater box for the reinstallation of the mounting screw. Tightened this screw. Remounted the heater box to the two mounting slots and reinstalled the flexible mounting bracket to the top of the heater box and installed and tightened the large screw holding this bracket. Cut off and removed the old electrical push-on terminals from the two red power wires for the heater element. These were discolored and oxidated from the conducted heat over the years of operation. Using the supplied short red leads with push-on terminals already installed, I wire tied these new leads to the existing red power leads and pushed them onto the heater element terminals. Rechecked the soundness of the twisted wire connections to make sure they were tight. Replaced the back panel and reinstalled the six 1/4" screws with the 1/4' nut driever. Reinstalled the driver vent line and tightened its holding ring. Slid the drier back into position on the floor. Checked the level and readjusted the leveling legs for a steady floor stance. Reinstalled the 220 volt power connecter and set the controlls for a drying cycle. Let the drier run for aproximately 1 minute and then checked the air temperature inside the drier. IT WAS NOW PRODUCING HOT AIR. Project completed successfully and I was now a HERO in my wifes eyes. Absolutely no technical problems encountered. Just remember, unplug the drier before starting ANY repairs. To forget this COULD RUIN YOUR DAY.
Parts Used:
Heating Element
  • Bill from Morristown, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
289 of 322 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer was not heating
This is the second heating element I have replaced in this dryer which I bought new in 1977. That's right it is 32 years old and still works great!

The replacement process is simple:
One: pull the dryer away from the wall so that you have room to work in the back.
Two: Disconnect the dryer vent hose from the back of the dryer.
Three: Remove the five - 5/16" hex head sheet metal screws that hold the back cover in place and set the cover to the side.
Four: Go to the front of the dryer and remove the lint filter and the two slot head screws that hold the lint filter opening to the internal frame.
Five: Pop the top of the dryer open and remove the one 5/16" hex head screw that holds the top of the heating element strap to the frame.
Six: Go to the back of the dryer and remove the two leads from the thermostat that is mounted to the heating element casing. CAUTION: Be careful to note the position of the wires and be certain that you reattach the correct wire to the correct lead.
Seven: Lift the heating element case up about 1/2" to disengage the hooks at the bottom that hold it in place.Then pull the bottom of the heating toward you slightly while sliding it down. This will allow you to remove the heating element and casing.
Eight: Remove the heating element from the casing and insert the replacement heating element.

Reverse the above process to reassemble.
This entire process only takes about 20 minutes.

An additional note: Be certain that you pay careful attention to the positioning of the strap that holds the top of the heating element case to the dryer frame. If you install it incorrectly, the heating element case can fall away from the back of the drum assembly.
Parts Used:
Heating Element
  • Frank from Fort Collins, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
100 of 109 people found this instruction helpful.
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Loads in the dryer took a very long time to dry often needing two full cycles to completely dry.
First, I moved the dryer out where it would be easily accessable. I then removed the back of the dryer using a nut driver. Once this was complete, I removed the cover holding the heating element. I disconnected the two wires and puled the old element out. I replaced it with the new heating element and reconnected the two wires. I then replace the back cover and moved the dryer back in place. The dryer works and heats much better now. Thankyou
Parts Used:
Heating Element
  • Rod from Galveston, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
39 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
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