Models > JVM1870SK03

JVM1870SK03 General Electric Microwave - Overview

Sections of the JVM1870SK03

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Manuals & Care Guides for JVM1870SK03

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Halogen Light Bulb - 120V 20W – Part Number: WB25X10019
Halogen Light Bulb - 120V 20W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect #: PS2351821
Manufacturer #: WB25X10019
This halogen light bulb is a replacement part for the bulb behind the top grill in your microwave. It is sold individually.
$28.24
  Special Order
FUSE – Part Number: WB27X10928
FUSE
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS1481237
Manufacturer #: WB27X10928
This ceramic microwave fuse is just over an inch in length. It is white in the center, and metal on both ends. This is a 20-amp fuse, and is used to power your microwave. If the touch pad on the micro...
$16.70
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Drive Motor – Part Number: WB26X10038
Drive Motor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS237772
Manufacturer #: WB26X10038
This motor rotates the glass turntable in the microwave and accepts a D-shaped shaft.
$92.92
  Special Order
Secondary Door Switch – Part Number: WB24X829
Secondary Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS237421
Manufacturer #: WB24X829
  No Longer Available
Grease Filter – Part Number: WB06X10596
Grease Filter
PartSelect #: PS952418
Manufacturer #: WB06X10596
This metallic vent hood filter collects grease particles in the air from cooking. Sold individually.
$81.58
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Glass Light Lens – Part Number: WB36X10071
Glass Light Lens
PartSelect #: PS247275
Manufacturer #: WB36X10071
$23.26
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Monitor Door Switch – Part Number: WB24X830
Monitor Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS237422
Manufacturer #: WB24X830
$47.21
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Glass Turntable Coupler – Part Number: WB06X10144
Glass Turntable Coupler
PartSelect #: PS227859
Manufacturer #: WB06X10144
This part accepts a D-shaped motor shaft.
$23.68
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Charcoal Filter – Part Number: WB02X10733
Charcoal Filter
PartSelect #: PS224009
Manufacturer #: WB02X10733
NOTE: The charcoal filter cannot be cleaned. It must be replaced. This metallic vent hood filter collects grease particles in the air from cooking.
$146.58
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Hood Damper Assembly – Part Number: WB06X10436
Hood Damper Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS651224
Manufacturer #: WB06X10436
  No Longer Available
Glass Cooking Tray – Part Number: WB49X10063
Glass Cooking Tray
PartSelect #: PS250009
Manufacturer #: WB49X10063
This tray rotates in your microwave ensuring more even temperatures and is approx.14-1/2 inches in diameter.
$117.41
  Special Order
Thermostat Cut-Out – Part Number: WB27X10810
Thermostat Cut-Out
PartSelect #: PS953949
Manufacturer #: WB27X10810
$47.65
  Special Order

Questions And Answers for JVM1870SK03

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Frank
January 8, 2020
The control panel seem to be ok but when trying to heat something at makes a loud humming sound. ???
For model number JVM1870SK03
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Hello Frank and thank you for writing. It certainly sounds like it could be a faulty drive motor PS237772 and/or a faulty stirrer motor PS237771 , you should check for signs of damage, and replace if necessary. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.

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Jackie
March 2, 2020
Everything was working fine and then i’ll put something into hate it and now nothing heats
For model number JVM1870SK03
PartSelect logo
Hello and thank you for writing. The most likely cause for this is a faulty Diode PS239740 or the Magnetron PS1019593. If you have a multimeter you can test them. The magnetron should have a reading of less than 1-ohm resistance across the two terminals, and an "open" circuit between each terminal and chassis ground. The diode/rectifier should have a resistance reading in one direction only, no resistance or resistance in both directions indicates a faulty diode. You will have to make sure that the appliance is unplugged before starting your repair. Be aware that the high voltage capacitor in your appliance may still retain a charge even after it has been unplugged. We hope this information helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.

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Common Symptoms of the JVM1870SK03

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Won’t turn on
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No heat
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Tray won’t turn
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Doesn’t shut off
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Touchpad does not respond
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Noisy
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Door not closing properly
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Microwave completely stopped working
Turned out the issue was easily solved by replacing a single, inexpensive fuse.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
Parts Used:
FUSE
  • Kim from Cliffside Park, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
953 of 1228 people found this instruction helpful.
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light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.
Parts Used:
Secondary Door Switch
  • Marla from Arlington, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
310 of 370 people found this instruction helpful.
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Lens cracked and bulbs burned out
First I removed the single screw holding the lens assembly in place. Then I lowered the assembly and tilted it until it came out. To remove the existing cracked glass lens there were four tabs bent down on it. By hand I lifted each tab just enough to remove the broken lens. I then replaced the broken lens with the new one and re-bent the tabs down by hand to secure them to the new lens.

The lens assembly, now removed, revealed the cavity that contained the two halogen bulbs. Since they were both burned out for days, they weren't hot so I could pull each one out by hand. The bulbs are secured by two straight heavy gauge wire leads and provided a little resistance but come out fairly easily. Make a mental note of the angle they came out so it will be easier to replace them with new ones.

You're not supposed to touch halogen bulbs with your bare hands, so I used the bubble wrap they came in as a means to hold the bulb while installing it.

Be sure to insert the bulbs at the same angle they came out so the pins do not get bent.

Once both bulbs are in place, replace the lens cover assembly by putting the end opposite where the screw hole goes in first on the right, then swing it up until flush and screw it down.
Parts Used:
Halogen Light Bulb - 120V 20W Glass Light Lens
  • Mark from GRAND BLANC, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
221 of 304 people found this instruction helpful.
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