Models > NAV5800AWW

NAV5800AWW Amana Washer - Overview

Sections of the NAV5800AWW

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Manuals & Care Guides for NAV5800AWW

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Thrust Washer – Part Number: WP233520
Thrust Washer
PartSelect #: PS11740482
Manufacturer #: WP233520
This washer is 3/4 inches in diameter.
$10.11
  In Stock
Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP596669
Hose Clamp
PartSelect #: PS11743008
Manufacturer #: WP596669
This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
$11.68
  In Stock
Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP285655
Hose Clamp
PartSelect #: PS11740613
Manufacturer #: WP285655
This hose clamp is sold individually.
$14.11
  In Stock
Screw, 8/18 x 3/8 – Part Number: WP90767
Screw, 8/18 x 3/8
PartSelect #: PS11746840
Manufacturer #: WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
$6.88
  In Stock
Adjustable Leveling Leg – Part Number: 22003428
Adjustable Leveling Leg
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS2021026
Manufacturer #: 22003428
Sold Individually. This adjustable leveling leg comes with a stop nut.
$23.49
  In Stock
Retaining Ring – Part Number: WP23748
Retaining Ring
PartSelect #: PS11740487
Manufacturer #: WP23748
This metal retaining ring is well under an inch long. Use it for your Maytag brand clothes washer or your clothes dryer.
$17.27
  In Stock
Inlet Hose - 5 FT – Part Number: WP89503
Inlet Hose - 5 FT
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS11746820
Manufacturer #: WP89503
This hose can handle hot or cold water and is five feet long.
$27.37
  In Stock
Timer Knob - light gray and white – Part Number: WP22003993
Timer Knob - light gray and white
PartSelect #: PS11739486
Manufacturer #: WP22003993
This is the second part of a three-part knob. The cap and the skirt are sold separately. This knob is blue and white in colour.
$40.42
  On Order
Lid Hinge Mounting Screw – Part Number: WPW10119828
Lid Hinge Mounting Screw
PartSelect #: PS11748588
Manufacturer #: WPW10119828
Sold individually. NOTE: The color on the screw may not be the same as the image, but will still function the same.
$11.68
  In Stock
Spring Retaining Clip – Part Number: WP22001650
Spring Retaining Clip
PartSelect #: PS11739294
Manufacturer #: WP22001650
This front cover spring retaining clip is not quite an inch long. It is made entirely of metal and is used for some washing machines.
$14.11
  In Stock
Drain Pump – Part Number: 27001233
Drain Pump
PartSelect #: PS1594294
Manufacturer #: 27001233
This pump is attached to the motor and helps expel water from the washing machine. It is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time.
  No Longer Available
V-Style Spin and Agitate Belt - 28-3/4 inches long – Part Number: WP27001006
V-Style Spin and Agitate Belt - 28-3/4 inches long
PartSelect #: PS11740577
Manufacturer #: WP27001006
This v-style spin and agitate belt is 28-3/4 inches long and half of an inch wide. It is all black in color and made entirely of rubber.
$85.46
  In Stock

Questions And Answers for NAV5800AWW

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Kevin
March 2, 2020
I've replaced the timer because it wasn't advancing but now it's still not advancing what else do i need to replace?
For model number NAV5800AWW
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Hello, Thank you for your question. You will want to check the knob, it seems that usually the main cause for this issue is the timer. We hope this helps.

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Andrew
February 15, 2020
Will not spin motor makes a humming noise. Drive motor?
For model number NAV5800AWW
PartSelect logo
Hello Andrew, thank you for your question. If the unit will agitate but only makes a humming noise when it tries to spin, we would recommend checking the belt and lid switch. If the unit will not agitate or spin the drive motor would be the most likely issue. I hope this helps.

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Common Symptoms of the NAV5800AWW

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Leaking
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Noisy
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Will not agitate
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Burning smell
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Will not drain
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No hot or cold water
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Spins slowly
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Spin cycle sounded like freight train
Spin cycle sounded like freight train, bad bearing, apparently they all fail the same way, this revised parts kit should prevent premature failure in future.

The following is easy for an experienced mechanic of any type, fully doable by an accomplished DYI'er, between this writeup and the kit instructions (which I do not fully follow) you should be fine. Probably avoid this task if you aren't either of the aforementioned.

Remove lower pannel, top pannel, lift top back. Remove fill hose to outer tub, clear tube to outer tub. Remove entire outer cabinet from base, exposing base and tub. Remove augur assy by popping off cap removing inner bolt, lifting augur out. Remove top of outer tub cap assy by pressing down where each latch is and gently prying latch open with screwdriver. Remove bolts holding in inner tub and remove inner tub. Unscrew the pastic nut on transmission shaft using channel locks (counterclockwise from top), don't worry about destroying this part since a new one is in the kit. Remove (pry off with your hands, don't worry about breaking it) the 'lint filter' (looks like a frisbee) and trash it. Remove the large (about 8")aluminum hub (that the inner tub bolts to) by unscrewing counterclockwise. No special tool needed, just use air hammer if available against one of the T shaped castings to get it loose, otherwise use a drift and hammer same way. Don't worry about messing up the part since a new one is in the kit. Remove the outer tub drain hose, remove six screws holding outer tub, lift outer tub out. Turn outer tub upside down and use a wide crowbar/nail puller to CAREFULLY pry out the bearing/seal assy from the bottom of the tub. Take your time working your way completely around the bearing/seal several times so it doesn't get too crooked while removing it. Clean everything thoroughly. Inspect the area of the bottom of outer tub where you removed the bearing/seal. If all is well and there are no gouges, get it wet with clean water and then carefully press the new bearing/seal assy in with the heal of the palm of your hand, working your way around it so it doesn't get crooked while pressing in. Do not use sealer (unless there are gouges) and do not hammer this. Make sure it is fully seated in the outer tub. Do reverse to put everything back together. I tightened the aluminum hub the same way I loosened it, no problem. There are some rubber plugs in the kit to install in some holes in the tub, scrape or clean any gunk off the inner tub around these holes so the rubber plugs will seat properly. Carefully snug the plastic nut with channelocks by gripping it from the top as opposed to the side (so the fins don't break). Note there is a small o-ring on the transmission shaft to change before replacing the augur. Nice and quiet after the repair, hopefully the new kit (and trashing the 'lint filter') makes it last longer... LOL, it's a bit disturbing seeing the gunk under the augur knowing that has been there all this time while 'cleaning' the laundry! I'll probably start removing the augur every so often to clean under there.
Parts Used:
Triple Lip Seal and Bearing Kit
  • Mike from Houston, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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Maytag Washer Leaks, Noisy
1. I unplugged the machine. Using a socket wrench set, I removed the washer housing (bottom, front and sides) and flipped over the top to its service position. This exposes all the inner parts of the washer.
2. I pulled out the softener cup, unbolted the auger using a socket wrench with a long adaptor. I then pulled out the auger, exposing the "Seal Nut" and bottom of the inner basket (metal)where the transmission arm rises through.
3. I removed the seal nut using the hub (or spanner) wrench, which I had purchased from the Home Depot for $9.00;
and removed the bolts of the inner basket using a socket wrench. I unclipped the large plastic ring which holds together the inner metal basket and the outer plastic tub. This ring sits on top of both. I then removed all the counter-balance springs attached around the tub assembly.
4. I pulled out the inner basket exposing a metal disc called the "hub", which holds the inner tub in place.
5. Using a large flat screwdriver and a hammer, I tapped on the "T" shaped protrusions around the hub to loosen the hub, as it is tightly screwed onto the tub. Remember that the hub is "uncrewed" counter-clockwise. I didn't take much care in tapping the hub because I knew that this part will be replaced.
5. I then unscrewed the hub using the hub wrench.
6. I carefully pulled out the inner tub throught the transmission arm.
7. I inverted the tub, placing it on a towel on the floor (I didn't want to crack the lip). Using a flat screwdriver (or a nail puller), I slowly pried out the triple lip seal and bearing (the metal ring in the center of the tub bottom), making sure that I DO NOT DAMAGE THE PLASTIC BOTTOM OF THE TUB where the bearing sits. At this point, I pushed out all the little plastic lint strainers around the bottom of the tub (as per the instruction leaflet) and replaced them with the provided rubber plugs. YOU WILL HAVE TO MAKE SURE THAT THE PLUGS ARE FIRMLY IN PLACE.
8. I now washed the auger (you will find residue/softener build up inside), the inner basket, and the outer tub. I also found dirt, sand, grime and mold in these parts and cleaned them thoroughly. This got rid of that smelly odor that my washer had for quite a while now.
9. I checked and saw water on the transmission disc where the lower bearing is. I figured that the lower bearing needed replacement as well.
10. I removed the lower transmission by removing the blots on the motor, and undid the belt from the pulley and gear.
11. While I had the brake pads exposed, I also applied a touch of automotive brake cleaner and brake spray.
11. I replaced the lower bearing with the new part, reattached the transmission ( I replaced the small "o-ring" on the transmission arm) and the motor and belt.
12. I replaced the tub seal bearing following the instructions provided with the new part.
13. I put the tub back, screwed on the new hub using the hub wrench, then CAREFULLY gave a couple of taps with my hammer and falthead screwdriver to tighten it. I placed a new gasket on the hub, screwed on the new seal nut, then repositioned the inner basket on.
14. After re-installing the tub and the inner basket, I put back the plastic ring that holds both tub and basket. I re-installed the auger and the cup.
I ran the machine for a test before I put the housing back in place to check for any leaks. THERE WERE NO MORE LEAKS, AND THE MACHINE SOUNDED AS GREAT AS IT DID WHEN WE PURCHASED IT 5+ YEARS AGO!
Parts Used:
Triple Lip Seal and Bearing Kit Upper/Lower Bearing Gasket Seal
  • RAYMUND from WEST COVINA, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Water leaking on floor from "mysterious place underneath washer"
Water was leaking on the floor during the wash cycle and especially during draining of the washer. I removed the front panel at ground level and watched while draining after a rinse.

I t was obvious that water was spraying from a hole in the rubber end of the hose (the hose is a fused assembly of a plastic section and a rubber section).

So, I finished draining, removed the hose (required pliers to squeeze off a hose clamp).

Upon inspecting the hose, it was also apparent that the hole was caused by rubbing against a support bracket for the motor. This should not happen, but it did because the plastic standoff supposed to keep the hose away from the bracket was installed 180 degrees backwards.

So, I simply replaced the hose and turned the bracket around to the correct orientation.

Everything worked as planned and my repair cost was much less than if I had called someone out.
Parts Used:
Drain Hose with Rubber Elbow
  • Bryan from Chicago, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
50 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
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