Models > RT18DKXHW00

RT18DKXHW00 Roper Refrigerator - Overview

Sections of the RT18DKXHW00

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Refrigerator Crisper Drawer – Part Number: W10854037
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer
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(11)
PartSelect #: PS11731260
Manufacturer #: W10854037
$148.13
  In Stock
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Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
Touch-Up Paint - White
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(16)
PartSelect #: PS385132
Manufacturer #: 72017
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$10.20
  In Stock
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Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
Refrigerator Door Switch
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(27)
PartSelect #: PS12728638
Manufacturer #: W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
$49.07
  In Stock
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Defrost Timer – Part Number: W10822278
Defrost Timer
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect #: PS11723171
Manufacturer #: W10822278
This eight-hour defrost timer will replace most other defrost timers. This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater....
$44.13
  In Stock
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Crisper Drawer Rail – Part Number: WP2163835
Crisper Drawer Rail
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(15)
PartSelect #: PS11738956
Manufacturer #: WP2163835
This part goes in the center of the crisper shelf and acts as a support.
$33.28
  In Stock
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Bimetal Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WP4387503
Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
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(17)
PartSelect #: PS11742474
Manufacturer #: WP4387503
This clip-on thermostat will sense the temperature increase in the evaporator during the defrost cycle and will cycle the defrost heater off after the ice or frost is melted.
$54.18
  In Stock
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Hinge Bracket – Part Number: WP2183805
Hinge Bracket
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(3)
PartSelect #: PS11739061
Manufacturer #: WP2183805
This part is used to support the hinge.
$13.68
  In Stock
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Crisper Drawer - Clear – Part Number: W10856580
Crisper Drawer - Clear
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★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS11731329
Manufacturer #: W10856580
This is a replacement crisper drawer for your refrigerator. The drawer is approximately 24 inches long, 11 inches wide, and 12 inches tall. It is made of clear plastic and is sold individually. The cr...
$136.15
  In Stock
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Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap – Part Number: WP2156003
Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap
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(1)
PartSelect #: PS11738927
Manufacturer #: WP2156003
The door shelf retainer bar end cap connects to the retainer bar on your refrigerator’s door shelf, and attaches it to the refrigerator door. If your shelf retainer bar has become disconnected, a dama...
$16.79
  In Stock
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Glass Shelf – Part Number: WP2169921
Glass Shelf
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(5)
PartSelect #: PS11738978
Manufacturer #: WP2169921
Glass Only. Frame not included.
$212.41
  On Order
End Cap Trim Piece – Part Number: WP2156006
End Cap Trim Piece
PartSelect #: PS11738928
Manufacturer #: WP2156006
Sold individually.
$8.51
  In Stock
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Screw – Part Number: WP489497
Screw
PartSelect #: PS11742758
Manufacturer #: WP489497
Sold individually.
$17.06
  In Stock
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Questions And Answers for RT18DKXHW00

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Judith
June 14, 2023
I have a Roper refrigerator, mfg. in 1999, Serial EJ4437785, 30 inch. I would like to clean the bottom drip pan of the refrigerator and cannot get the bottom front piece off. I have no service manual for this. Can you help me?
For model number RT18DKXHW00
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Hello Judith, thank you for reaching out. In order to get the grille off, there are locking tabs on each side of the grille. Grab it and pull it off, one after the other. We hope this solves your problem!

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Common Symptoms of the RT18DKXHW00

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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Leaking
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Freezer section too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Noisy
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Will Not Start
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Frost buildup
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer too cold
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Too warm
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Door Sweating
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Ice maker not making ice
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Won’t start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
The frost free feature of the freezer was freezing over with ice and cooling coils were being insulated with thickening frost which caused the cooling air to rise in temperature from -5 degrees to 20 degrees.
I troubleshot the problem by reading the electrical schematic and concluding the heating elements (defrost cables) were either defective or the bi-metal temp sensor was open. When closed the temp sensor completes the circuit for the current to flow through the heaters to defrost the cooling coils every 8 hours and then when the bimetal opens at 55 degrees the circuit is open and the coils are cooled because the refridgeration motor is in run mode. A timer between the motor and heater elements also was defective. The timer controls the cooling period and the defrost period. I ohmed out each part according to the spec sheet of normal resistance of parts and thus the bimetal and timer were defective. I gather a surge of some duration and amplitude affected these parts because a storm 24 hours prior to refridgerator problem had passsed through the area and the AC electrical power had oscillated several times during that event. I used hand tools to do the repair. If you are not mechanically inclined a step by step proceedure would be moot. It is a matter of disassembly and assembly paying close attention to fragile parts.
Parts Used:
Defrost Timer Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
  • Lawrence from Grahamsville, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
428 of 510 people found this instruction helpful.
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Faulty thermostat
My refrigerator is approximately seven years old (date of manufacture: 2001). I had come home twice in the last month to find that it had not been running for several hours (ice melted, milk spoiled, etc.) but it would start running again if I twisted the thermostat knob. So, I ordered a new thermostat. First I removed the 1/4" hex screw that held the plastic thermostat housing in place (it screws up into the top of the refrigerator compartment). Then I removed the plastic thermostat knob and slid the old thermostat out of the housing. I then disconnected the wires one-by-one from the old thermostat and connected them to the new one so I could be certain they were all connected correctly. Finally, I pulled the plastic sheathing off the old sensor wire, slid it onto the new one and popped the wire back into place. Slide the thermostat back into the housing, screw the housing back into the top of the refrigerator compartment, replace the plastic thermostat knob, and the job is done.
Parts Used:
Temperature Control Thermostat
  • Aaron from Houston, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
90 of 96 people found this instruction helpful.
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Lights inside refrigerator not working
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Door Switch
  • Clint from Rayville, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
118 of 192 people found this instruction helpful.
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