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UMC5200AAS
UMC5200AAS Maytag Microwave - Overview
Sections of the UMC5200AAS
[Viewing 7 of 7]Manuals & Care Guides for UMC5200AAS
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Turntable Roller Guide
PartSelect #: PS972658
Manufacturer #: 8205178
This roller is located underneath the glass turntable. With the help of the motor, this roller helps to rotate the glass tray. This part takes the place of the coupling.
No Longer Available
Door Interlock Switch Kit
PartSelect #: PS373050
Manufacturer #: 4392027
This kit contains 2 switches - 15 Amp - 125/250 Volt with 3/16" terminals.
$121.91
Special Order
Turntable Motor
PartSelect #: PS11749221
Manufacturer #: WPW10159107
This motor rotates the glass turntable in the microwave.
$160.69
Special Order
Wave Guide Rivet
PartSelect #: PS11742425
Manufacturer #: WP4359508
This rivet is used for the stirrer cover/wave guide. They are sold individually.
$10.50
In Stock
Cooking Tray
PartSelect #: PS11742825
Manufacturer #: WP53001838
This tray rotates in your microwave ensuring more even temperatures.
No Longer Available
Wave Guide Cover
PartSelect #: PS11751404
Manufacturer #: WPW10261216
This part guides the waves to the inside of the microwave to cook your food.
$76.73
Special Order
Questions And Answers for UMC5200AAS
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JOHN
February 12, 2020
Tray turns on when you open the door and sometimes will not start
For model number UMC5200AAS
Hello and thank you for writing.
It certainly sounds like your motor is becoming faulty PS11749221 and/or possibly faulty switches PS373050 you should check the part(s) for signs of damage or test with a multimeter, and replace the part(s) as needed. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
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Darrel
June 14, 2021
Timer counts down but turn table does not turn and doesn’t sound like microwave is operating.
For model number UMC5200AAS
Hello Darrel, Thank you for the question. The first this we suggest testing are the three Door Switches. The function of this part is to sense when the door of the microwave is open or closed. If the part is defective, the microwave will not start or will start when door is open. We show that the switches should be tested with a multimeter, and replaced if they show no continuity. We hope this helps!
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Common Symptoms of the UMC5200AAS
[Viewing 4 of 4]No heat
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Tray won’t turn
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Won’t turn on
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Doesn’t shut off
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sparks and loud hum from oven
1. I went to the internet to find the service manual for the Maytag microwave.
2. I opened up the oven and started measuring the resistance of the diode, capacitor, transformer, and magnetron between terminals and then to ground. The transformer and magnetron were well within the resistance limits. The diode was shorted in both directions(+-). The capacitor was fully open in both directions -- high resistance.
3. I ordered the 2 parts, installed them, and ran the oven. Worked perfect first time.
4. Reinstalled oven and worked ever since (1 week so far).
5. The secret was that the transformer had a load hum. I figured the transformer was OK. The magnetron had no short between filaments and ground to filaments. The only two left were the diode and capacitor. The first two are about $200 -- almost the value of a new microwave. The $70 repair was well worth it. If the first two were still bad, then tempted to buy a new oven.
2. I opened up the oven and started measuring the resistance of the diode, capacitor, transformer, and magnetron between terminals and then to ground. The transformer and magnetron were well within the resistance limits. The diode was shorted in both directions(+-). The capacitor was fully open in both directions -- high resistance.
3. I ordered the 2 parts, installed them, and ran the oven. Worked perfect first time.
4. Reinstalled oven and worked ever since (1 week so far).
5. The secret was that the transformer had a load hum. I figured the transformer was OK. The magnetron had no short between filaments and ground to filaments. The only two left were the diode and capacitor. The first two are about $200 -- almost the value of a new microwave. The $70 repair was well worth it. If the first two were still bad, then tempted to buy a new oven.
Parts Used:
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Guy from Bellingham, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Microwave worked intermittently depending on how door was closed
Remove top grille (2 screws), undo control panel (1 screw). Tilt down control panel, switches are on the left. There are actually three switches that are involved with the door, two horizontally mounted, one vertically mounted. This would be an EASY REPAIR, but it took me a while to figure out which of the three switches was bad, and also took a while to figure out that there is a plastic rod that inserts through the hole in the switch body. Once i figured this out went like a breeze. Lower horizontal switch was the bad one, but since the kit came with two switches i went ahead and replaced the upper horizontal one as well. IT appears that the horizontal switches are probably more likely to fail than the vertical switch based on the position of the switch and force angles. Works great now!
Parts Used:
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Robert from Bainbridge Island, WA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
67 of 82 people
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no heat
I looked up the #1 reason for no heat for my microwave on the site , and using my model number found that 92% of the time it was the Black Sleeve Diode. Ordered the $15 part, and installed it within 30 minutes. Most of the time was used for removing the built in microwave and removing the cover. Replaced the diode by finding it on the diagram that I printed from this site (free). Very relieved that we don't need to have our custom cabinetry re-sized to accommodate a new microwave. Thank you!
Parts Used:
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Lisa from PARADISE, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
28 of 28 people
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