Water Inlet Valve

Disconnect power to washer, remove H & C water hoses attached to water valve inlet (for me this was the hardest part of the whole job...hard to get to and a bit tight.) Remove washer top by depressing 2 spring loaded clamps (located between the top and the cabinet about two inches from each edge A flashlight can help you locate the clips.) with a screw driver (recommend using a shim to keep top up after first clip is released until you can release second). Lift up forward end of top, lift back of top off of hinges, and slide top forward on cabinet so you can access water valve. Remove and note position of electrical connections to water valve. Remove one screw holding the plastic fixture surrounding valve and one screw holding valve bracket. Install new valve, reconnect electrical, re-install top, reconnect hoses and you're all set.

Turn off water and unplug washer. Use putty knife to release the catches in order to lift the top. Remove the screw that holds the entire assembly to the back of the washer. Pull the valve assembly forward in order to make the remaining repairs easier. Next remove the screw that allows you to separate the front water difuser from the valve bracket. The last is a phillips screw that holds the valve/solenoid to the mounting bracket. Reverse these steps to install the new part.

Removed washer top by depressing spring loaded clamps with a screw driver. Tricky part was determining location of clamps so that I knew where to insert screw driver; (I used diagrams of my model found on the Internet). With top lifted up, I located water control valve and removed brackets and plastic fixture surrounding it. Was careful to disconnect electronic wiring into valve. Then removed hoses and replaced with new part. Most of the time spent was diagnosing problem, determining plan for getting access to part, and reassembling without losing parts down in tub area. Saved an estimated $150-250 by doing it myself.

Doing this repair was a breeze. After disconnecting the power and water I popped the lid and it was 3 screws and 2 wire connectors. Reassembled and done. This was beyond cost effective to do and with simple look see at a diagram anyone with basic mechanical know how and some basic tools could do this.

Just installed the valve 7-18-2010.
Removed electrical plug from the wall and closed the water supply valve. Removed supply hoses. Had to use pliers to get into recessed connections. Bad design. Raised lid using narrow putty knife to release clips under lid on corners. Removed connectors from solonoids, marking their positions, and set aside wires to prevent pinching or slicing them accidentally. Opened chute by depressing tabs on both sides. Removed the only screw in the water chute on left side and depressed the tab beneath other side to slide chute off. Removed single screw on left side holding valve bracket and slid bracket out of slot on right side. Removed screw from bracket holding valve in place. Reversed order to reassemble.
This is the second valve replaced in this five year old Maytag along with one transmission at two and one half years old. This new valve appears to be leaking through at this writing but I'm running the washer through a cycle to see if it will then seal tight. Will post follow up if possible.
P.S. Valve is holding as of 8-5-2010.

Easy repair replacing the water valve assembly. Good advise from other posts helped much.

Parts look up was simple. part was priced right. part received in a timely manner and was as advertised. installation was quick and painless.

Very simply put a screwdrive under the top and lift up off the clips and lay it back will expose the Water Inlet Valve,take the 2 screws off,pull the 2 water lines off,2 electrical wires and thats it.

followed directions you gave. Simple

top cover lifts up and folds back to expose the water solenoid switch. Disconnect water inlet hoses and wires and replace switch.