Part Location Diagram of WP2315576 Whirlpool Refrigerator Single Water Inlet Valve
See part 5 in the diagram
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
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Refrigerator Single Water Inlet Valve

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$91.13
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PartSelect Number PS11740365
Manufacturer Part Number WP2315576
Manufactured by Whirlpool
Product Description

Refrigerator Single Water Inlet Valve Specifications

Also known as a Water Solenoid Valve. The water inlet valve is a solenoid-operated switch that, when activated, releases water from the supply line to the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold.
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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Ice maker not making ice | Leaking | Ice maker won’t dispense ice | Not dispensing water
This part works with the following products:
Refrigerator, Ice Maker.
This part works with the following products:
Kenmore, Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid.
Part# WP2315576 replaces these:
AP6007253, 12213901, 2001318, 2155063, 2171999, 2181702, 2181704, 2181915, 2181917, 2182104, 2188782, 2210436, 2210494, 2315508, 2315576, W10219716, W10498974, WP2315576VP, WPW10219716
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.8 / 5.0, 17 reviews. What's this?
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
No water feed to icemaker
To troubleshoot - Check water supply to valve. It f that's good - remove back plate, remove water valve reconnect inlet line, disconnect electrical connector, place valve over a pan with outlet fitting disconnected, temporarily connect 110 VAC with clipleads to water valve solenoid. No water flow means valve is not opening. To install new valve, connect outlet line, and wiring connector, then insert in cabinet and install 2 screws, reinstall back plate, connect water inlet line.
Other Parts Used:
  • Robert from Abingdon, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Wrench set
81 of 101 people found this instruction helpful.
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ice maker wasn't making ice cubes
I first poured water into the ice maker itself and it made ice, so knew the ice maker itself was working ok. Turned the water valve at the wall off, removed the inlet valve from the back of the fridge with a nut driver, disconnected the solenoid wires and disconnected the water supply line entering the inlet valve and turned the water supply back on and found that the water was flowing ok out of the supply line. Reconnected the water line to the inlet valve and disconnected the water line going from the inlet valve to the ice maker and reconnected the wires to the solenoid on the inlet valve and found no water going through and so determined that the inlet valve/solenoid was faulty and easily replaced it. Note that an ohmeter check said the solenoid was ok, so it could have been that the filter screen inside the inlet valve was blocked. It's a sealed unit, so there was no way to take the screen out to check.
Other Parts Used:
  • Robert from Pittsboro, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
47 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
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Water was overflowing into ice bin.
First I ascertained that valve was faulty. Ordered replacement and installed without issue. Water now overflowed only during fill and found that filler neck had ice in it as a result of initial leakage. Defrosted with a hair dryer, removed ice plug and it now works as advertised.
Other Parts Used:
  • Russell E from Rome, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
22 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
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Ice maker would not fill with water
Turn off the water supply.
Remove the two screws with a nut driver.
Disconnect the electrical connector.
Disconnect the water supply lines from the old valve.
Reconnect the water supply lines to the new valve.
(be sure to push the water line into the quick connect securely)
Reconnect the electrical connector.
Re-install the valve with the two screws.
Turn water supply on.
Other Parts Used:
  • William from Springville, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
20 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
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Leaking water inlet valve
This would have been a less-than-5-minute repair except for one item. The water intake nossle was 180 degrees from the original part. As a result, the copper water inlet tube would not fit in the old space and still allow me to reattach the valve to the freezer chassie. I ended up leaving the valve hanging loose under the freezer. I spent most of my time trying to fit the valve into the old space.

Unplug freezer. Disconnect electrical connections (pull apart). Remove one screw holding the valve to the chassie. disconnect water inlet pipe and water outlet pipe from old valve.

Reconnect electrical connection to new valve. Reconnect in and out water hoses. Reconnect valve to chassie. Plug freezer back in. Finished

Everything works just fine !
Other Parts Used:
  • Steven S. from Kerrville, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
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No ice was being made
I looked up the refrigerator on the internet and found this website. I got the diagram of the parts of the icemaker and found that the valve must be defective because no water was coming up to the icemaker.
I ordered the part which came the next day. Took out the screws, conected the water line to the new part. moved the electrical connection to the new part and we had ice. Saved a lot of money that the plumber would have cost.
Other Parts Used:
  • Reinhold from Cheshire, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
11 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
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Icemaker just stopped making ice one night
I pulled the refrigerator out from the wali slowly so not to damage the water line to the ice maker. Then with a nut driver I removed all the screws holding the back plate on. Being careful not to kink the water line, I used the adjustable wrench to losen the water line feed nut and the nut that goes to the line to the icemaker. Then I removed the screws holding the valve in place finished unhooking the water lines with my fingers. I then got the new valve and finger tightend the main water supply nut to the inlet side, then I pushed the plastic supply tube going to the icemaker into the valve. The new valve does not use a nut to attach the tubing it is a presure fit very easy.
Other Parts Used:
  • Robert from Center Moriches, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
8 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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old valve was not shutting off fully, flooding ice-maker, creating a glacier
Shut off water supply, removed old valve (two screws, 1/4' nut driver), disconnect electrical plug, remove water lines (adjustable wrench). Cut fitting off tube to ice-maker (new unit has a push-to-connect fitting). Replace water lines and electrical connector. Mount valve back on cabinet. Turn water back on.
Other Parts Used:
  • duncan from HOWELL, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Water inlet valve failed to close, flooded kitchen.
Only two possible failures can cause this problem. The valve itself could fail electronically/mechanically, or the ice maker controller on the ice maker itself failed to tell the valve to close. To cover all the bases I bought both parts. $196.00 To change the ice maker, three screws, one electrical plug, remove and reinstall face cover plate from old ice maker to new one, and remove and reinstall the metal bar that indicated when the ice bin is full, and tells the controller to stop making ice. It’s on YouTube and takes 10 to 15 minutes to complete the change.
To change the inlet valve, there is a little bit more to it then YouTube shows, ESPECIALLY SPECIAL TOOLING I PERSONALLY RECOMMEND. IF YOU DON’T HAVE IT YOU COULD DAMAGE NEW PARTS DURING INSTALLATION. Pull the fridge out, disconnect power and turn off the water. Have towels/ water catch tray/pan handy. Remove screws on the back cover plate as required to access inlet valve. Remove the water inlet line, (mine was 1/4 inch compression fitting, copper tubing.) remove 2 screws that hold valve in place. Pull valve out to full extension of electrical plug. Here is the part that YouTube DOES NOT COVER, take note of how many wires of go to each prong of the connector and its orientation while removing. I’m not a electrician/spark chaser, my guess it is a solenoid/relay type valve, when energized, it will open or close the valve. This is an AC circuit, and I will be honest, I don’t think polarity is a concern, but don’t quote me on that. It’s just easier to take note and put it back the way it was. It worked for 20 plus years, it should to the same if you put it back the way you found it, given you removed and replaced an identical part or a suitable substitute. Depending what valve you receive your water supply line from the valve to the ice maker can vary. It could be a Nylon compression fitting, (which could require additional parts,) or a quick disconnect. That is covered in YouTube, and its exact. Mine was a QD, cut 1/4 inch off nylon tubing and insert, pull back on line to insure security. Done. Very simple. Reconnect electrical plug, IN ITS PROPER ORIENTATION. Reattach valve with two screws. The next step IS NOT COVERED IN YOUTUBE. Before you reinstall cover plate, and push the fridge back, turn on water supply to the valve and perform a leak check. I would recommend applying power and make sure the valve cycles, and the line between the valve and ice maker doesn’t leak. I was good on the line between the valve and ice maker, that did not leak. My copper inlet tubing compression fitting failed at the valve attach point, and required special tooling to repair. A compression fitting to fix a leak you tighten till leak stops. So they say. This fitting was over torqued at one time or another, and leaked, so I spliced in about 6 inches of new copper tubing added a union, and 3 new compression fittings. The bad part, I had to go to hardware store, buy 10 feet of tubing (only needed 6 inches), the B-nuts, and the brass sleeves. To make the new attach point at the valve and new line, since the valve is mostly made of plastic, I used the union to fabricate the new end going to the valve, removed the union and attached the line to the valve. Here is where the special tool comes in, the fitting on the valve, is a very low profile hex head fitting, made of brass which is a soft material, very easy to strip if the wrench slips, and a back up wrench is near impossible to install as a back up with out fouling the B-nut while tightening the fitting. So I ground down a 1/2 or 9/16 open end wrench to fit, (check your fittings size before grinding or buying a wrench, yours could be metric), made it a thin wrench, so I can tighten compression fitting and back up the valve side WITH OUT DAMAGING THE VALVE I just paid 70 bucks for. If you own expensive tools Harbor Freight is your friend for a wrench to grind down or buy a thin wrench.
Snap-On makes thin wrenches, but I think they cost more then the valve. Once my splice was installed, I performed another leak check, all was good, I reinstalled, back cover panel, and pushed the fridge back. Since the ice maker was changed, the longest time took was adjusting ice cube size. You have to wait a complete cycle to see what size is dumped, then make the adjustment, and wait another complete cycle to see results. And do that until you get desired results. Those adjustments are on YouTube, and are fairly accurate. I ended up doing more then 1/2 turn at a time. More like 4 complete turns counter clockwise for larger ice. But it works! To change the valve actually takes about 15-20 minutes, very easy, I had complications. My luck, with any kind of plumbing, I make many trips to the hardware store. That is a given and completely unavoidable. Hope this helps.
Ron O.
Other Parts Used:
Ice Maker
  • Ada from MOUNTAIN HOME, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Ice Maker was overflowing with water
I could not determine if the solenoid water inlet valve or the ice maker unit was bad, so I replaced both.
In this model of the refrigerator, the freezer is a drawer on the bottom, so this makes access to the ice maker mounting a little tricky. The need to contort to reach into the back made this take longer and was more uncomfortable than expected. I needed to completely remove the screws for the top brackets, even though most instructions indicate you can loosen these and lift the ice maker off. Be careful to properly re-seat the water guide that directs the water from the inlet tube to the ice maker. That tended to interfere with re-connecting the wiring harness to the back of the freezer. Again, this was likely difficult because of having to bend over into the freezer.
The ice maker needs to be in the freezer for about 12 hours before the sensor in the black wire is cool enough to allow operation. I did not know this at first, so I was initially worried that there was a bigger problem. If you want to use the test functions with a jumper wire, be sure the door switch that controls the freezer light is depressed.
The solenoid value replacement was fairly straightforward. I found it useful to use a small open wrench to push the compression lock for the value-to-ice maker water tube to remove the old solenoid. Otherwise, replacing the water valve was simple.
Other Parts Used:
Replacement Ice Maker
  • William from W LAFAYETTE, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers

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26 questions answered by our experts.
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Rob Grant
August 17, 2017
When testing my ice maker water-inlet valve for continuity, i get a reading of 175 to 180. Does this mean the valve is bad and needs to be replaced or is it in the acceptable range?
For model number 2182104
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Hello Rob, Thank you for contacting us. You would need to see if it is receiving the proper voltage of 120VAC. For continuity you are really only concerned that it reads a closed circuit. I hope this helps

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Ginette
December 12, 2017
Water leaks out of the ice maker when making ice cubes in 2 spots leaving frozen globs of ice cubes stuck together in the tray.
For model number MFF2258VEM5
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Hi Ginette, Thank you for the question. If the icemaker is leaking I suggest removing it from the appliance to see if there is crack somewhere the leak can be coming from. It is possible the Ice Mold may be damaged and needs to be replaced. If there are no cracks or damage you can see, you may need to replace the ice maker. Hope this helps!

6 people found this helpful.

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Don
January 21, 2018
The valve doesn't allow water to the maker
For model number MITXEMMWS03
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Hi Don, Thank you for your question. If the water inlet valve is not allowing water to go to the ice maker it may need to be replaced. Also check the tubing between the ice maker and water inlet valve to see if there are any blockages. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Jim
December 6, 2022
My ice maker stopped making ice. I then followed some of the suggestions in this Q&A forum: I manually filled the ice tray and the ice maker did make ice as well as added the cubes to the ice bin. I did this a couple of times to confirm that the ice maker was indeed working. I then checked the ohms reading on the water inlet valve and it read approximately 188ohms (I had read that an acceptable range was 200 - 500ohms). Based on this I purchased and installed a new water inlet valve. It has been 2hrs and I am not seeing any water being added to the ice maker. Do I need to give it more time for the ice maker to initiate a harvest cycle? Did shutting off the power during the water inlet valve installation automatically initiate a restart of the ice maker harvest cycle (which I read could take up to 24hrs for ice to be made)?
For model number ET8GHMXLQ02
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Hello Jim, Thank you for your inquiry. Turning off the power to the refrigerator should restart the harvest cycle, but we have also included a link to our video on how to test the valve and ice maker. We would also recommend checking the lines for any clogs or leaks to make sure water is getting to the ice maker. Good luck with your repair.

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Emile
January 2, 2018
Water is dripping in the rear of my refrigerator from the freezer level down into the refrigerator section. It accumulates in the bottom of the refrigerator and eventually will reach a level where it overflows out of the front of the refrigerator onto our floor.
For model number ET8GHMXLQ00
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Hi Emile, Thank you for your question. If there is water leaking from the freezer section into the refrigerator, then you may have a clogged or frozen drain line. If this is the case you will need to either clean the line of debris or if there is ice, you will need to clear the drain with some warm water. Also make sure the refrigerator is level. This will allow the water in the refrigerator to drain correctly. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Dave
May 13, 2019
Why does water leak into ice tray before freezing but still makes ice cubes
For model number MBF2256KEB
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Hi Dave, Thank you for your question. If water is leaking into the ice tray, there may be an issue with the water inlet valve or the water lines. You will need to check the parts to see which one is causing the issue. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Greg
July 25, 2021
Hi. Do you just push the white plastic water line into this part? What holds it in there? Thank you Greg
For model number WP2315576
PartSelect logo
Hello Greg, Thank you for your inquiry. Yes, the plastic water line fits into the yellow quick connect on the valve, which locks onto the line and holds it in place. Good luck with your repair.

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Ken
February 14, 2023
HOW DOES THE OUTLET TUBE ATTACH TO THE WATER INLET VALVE. DOES NOT APPEAR TO HAVE ANY COUPLIN.
For model number GX55HDXVQ01
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Hello Ken, thank you for reaching out. We have found a video to help you out. The inlet valve in this video is the same, but the refrigerator model is different. The procedure for attaching the outlet tube to the inlet valve is also the same. We hope this helps!

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Alice
May 21, 2019
I see the part listed above is available. Where would it come from and how long for delivery. I am in canada
For model number 2315576 part #
PartSelect logo
Hello Alice, Thank you for the question. The shipping is usually 3-5 business days. Once the order is shipped we email you a link to track the package and it will show the ship from location. Hope this helps!

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Don
June 26, 2019
My ice maker is making ice, but it isn't working to get a glass of water. Ice side works, water side doesn't.
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Hello Don, thank you for contacting us, In order for us to locate the correct parts and repair information we will require the model number of the unit. Once you have located the model number please feel free to resubmit the question and we will be happy to help you. Look forward to hearing from you!

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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11740365
Manufacturer Part Number: WP2315576
Brand
Model Number
Description
Kenmore
1062155184
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10647021790
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10647021791
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10647028790
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10647028791
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10657021790
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10657021791
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10657022790
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10657022791
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10657028790
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10657028791
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10660162990
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10660167990
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10660172990
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10660177990
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10660182000
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10660182001
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10660184001
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10660187000
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10660192000
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10660192001
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10660194001
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10660197000
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10660262990
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10660262991
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10660264991
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10660267990
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10660272990
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