Part Location Diagram of WP3387134 Whirlpool Dryer Cycling Thermostat
See part 42 in the diagram
Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Dryer Cycling Thermostat
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
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Dryer Cycling Thermostat

 Fits your NED4600YQ0!
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14 Reviews
$35.55
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PartSelect Number PS11741405
Manufacturer Part Number WP3387134
Manufactured by Whirlpool
Part Videos

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Dryer Cycling Thermostat

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Dryer Cycling Thermostat
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Too hot | Not Heating | Won’t Start | Heat stays on after drum has stopped
This part works with the following products:
Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo.
This part works with the following products:
Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid.
Part# WP3387134 replaces these:
AP6008270, 2011, 3-6910, 306910, 3387134, 3387135, 3387139, WP3387134VP
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Customer Reviews
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.7 / 5.0, 161 reviews. What's this?
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Dryer blew cold air.
PartSelect is great for providing parts as requested. Unfortunately, neither of the 2 parts I ordered were on my machine. My bad for not looking at the actual part instead of the description. A word to the wise!
Other Parts Used:
High Limit Thermostat
  • Tom from High Point, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
745 of 792 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer would take forever to dry clothes, even on high setting
I ordered all the thermal sensors for the dryer. They arrived two days later and they were the correct parts. It took me about 1/2 hour to replace all three sensors and now the dryer works like new again. My wife was very pleased, so was I.
Other Parts Used:
Dryer High Limit Thermostat Thermal Cut-Off Kit
  • John from Indianapolis, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
650 of 833 people found this instruction helpful.
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intermittant heat
First I shut off the gas supply and disconnected the dryer vent and unpluged the unit so you can access the rear of the dryer. Then I removed the rear cover. This is where you will find your thermostats and fuses. Holding the new part next to the one to be replaced I transfer the wires one at a time so as not to get them mixed up, then unscrew the old part and install the new one. Insert a flat blade screwdriver under the top cover in the 2 front corners to unsnap it from it's clips, also at this time you need to remove the 2 screws that hold the upper part of the lint filter tube to the lid, then lift the lid to expose the drum ( I tilted the dryer back as far as the flex gas line would allow me to and rested the top lid against the wall without removing it, to many wires). Behind the front cover in the top right corner is the plug for the door switch,un-plug it and also there are 2 screws one in each corner. After that lift the front cover straight up and pull it away from the cabinet ( it has clips at the bottom to hold it in place). Reaching under the drum on the right side pull down on the belt tensioner and release the belt from the motor then you can remove the drum. Laying the drum down on it's front edge I removed the rear felt seal and took a piece of sand paper to rough up th old glue and clean off some of the felt that was still stuck to the drum. Following the directions from the seal package I put the glue around the edge of the drum and re-installed the new felt. This is a good time to clean out your dryer, while the glue sets up. A shop vac works the best, but be carefull not to suck up the money, it will help pay for the repair ( I found over a dollar in change ). At this time I also changed the coils on the gas valve, remove the 2 screws that hold the clamp and replace them one at a time. Re-install the drum with the belt on it, fold it and push it through the tensioner and put it on the motor pulley. rotate the drum to make sure that the felt is not kinked under itself, re-install the front cover bottom clips first, then the 2 screws and the plug for the door switch, pull down the lid and snap it in place, before installing the rear cover this is a good time to remove the rear cover to the lint chute and clean in there also ( it's easy to see why there are so many dryer fires). Re- install that cover and the rear cover and vent tube, turn your gas back on and check it for leaks ( even if you didn't disconnect it) plug your dryer back in and get busy catching up on the laundry that you haven't had a chance to do because your dryer broke, then smile and think about all the money you saved by doing this simple repair your self. Thanks Parts Select
Other Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" Rear Drum Felt Seal
  • Paul from Monmouth, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
480 of 531 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer will not turn on
Followed electrical drawing from switch to motor, Thermal fuse was in the line and no power coming through it, removed wire and put together and tested, dryer turned on. Read statements from others at parts select and also bought thermostat because time stopped working last year. Installed both parts and cleaned dryer, works perfect including timer.
Other Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • Michael from Worcester, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
431 of 544 people found this instruction helpful.
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no heat
took a couple differant parts to fix the dryer. i ordered one part at a time. i was expecting to wait the 5 days for shipping but i got home from work the next day of odering parts and they were there waiting for me on my doorstep. all three times i ordered. this website is the best site to order parts. i wont go to another website or store if i need to order parts for appliances. u guys have my business for life. thumbs up.
Other Parts Used:
Thermal Cut-Off Kit Heating Element Connection Wire Kit
  • Christopher from dublin, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
231 of 286 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer wouldn't heat
I first unplugged the electrical plug, then opened up the dryer, front and back. Once I had diagnosed the problem I unscrewed the thermal fuses and thermostat. Marked which color wire went to which connector and continued to replace one wire at a time. Re-attached the mounting screws, verified all wires were connected, plugged in dryer to test heat cycle. Once the dryer worked correctly I vacuumed all lint and covered it up.
Other Parts Used:
Thermal Cut-Off Fuse Kit Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • Hector from Whittier, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
218 of 272 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer wouldn't turn on.
When my dryer suddenly stopped functioning, without any prior signs of pending failure, I guessed that it had to be something simple, like a fuse. I did a google search and stumbled across a forum post that described the symptoms (wouldn't turn on), and the poster said that Whirlpool recommends replacing the thermostat whenever the fuse is replaced. The reason for this is that the likely cause of the fuse burning is that the thermostat is no longer properly regulating the temperature range of the heating element.

I disconnected the power source, and then I removed the back cover, and both parts were in plain view, so I simply replaced the wires one by one.
Other Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • Colin from Bellingham, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
208 of 235 people found this instruction helpful.
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Heat in dryer very low, would take an hour and half to dry a load
First I called an appliance repair place. They charged me $40 to come out and said "the air vent might be clogged". I snaked it out and really wasn't anything in there. So I started thinking it might be a thermostat. After reading the reviews that others posted here, I said, "how hard can it be"? Thanks to PartsSelect putting a diagram (schematic) of the parts, I could see what I was looking for when I removed the back panel. So I took my nutdrivers out, disconnected the vent hose and removed the 10 or so nuts off the back panel & got it out of the way. Took out the vacuum cleaner and sucked all the lint out. Removed the housing where the heating element was and marked on both thermostats and housing where each wires went. As cheap as PartsSelect had the thermostats priced, I figured why not remove the guesswork by buying the highlimit and cycling thermostats and a new heating element too. One screw in each thermostat and out they came. Swapped wires with new thermostats and put them back. With the heating element...it was all one piece, so no fighting to get the element into an old housing. Just swapped them. Put the back panel on and reconnected the vent hose. Cost to repair: about $100. Time for parts to get to me: 2 days. Time to install new parts: about 10 minutes. Knowing that I have a dryer that runs like new AND saving a TON of money on electric bill....THAT is priceless. Thanks PartsSelect!
Other Parts Used:
Dryer High Limit Thermostat Heating Element - 240V 5400W
  • Michael from Parker, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
181 of 197 people found this instruction helpful.
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Thermal fuse blown
I spent nearly an hour trying to self-diagnose the problem before I wised up and found PartSelect.com. After reading just a couple of postings I went back and tested the thermal fuse. It was bad. Other posts suggested I replace the thermostat at the same time, so I ordered both. The parts arrived within three days and the actual repair took less than 10 minutes.
Other Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • Jeffery from Plymouth, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
166 of 183 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer would not heat.
I checked parts select.com and followed the guide lines,ordered the correct parts thanks to the web site help.parts arrived in 2 days,A very easy install and back to work drying clothes.Thanks parts select.
Other Parts Used:
Thermal Cut-Off Fuse Kit Disposable Thermal Fuse - Two Terminal Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
  • Russell from LA VERNE, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
156 of 174 people found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers

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245 questions answered by our experts.
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Jerry
July 24, 2017
Is there a way to test the thermal interna bias switch to be sure it is the problem
For model number Ler7646ez2
PartSelect logo
Hello Jerry, thank you for contacting us. With a multimeter you can test the two large terminals on the thermostat, they should read closed for continuity and the two small ones should show an ohms resistance value. We hope this helps and good luck with the repair!

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Kealan
July 20, 2017
I’m not sure how often this happens because it hasn’t happened to me or anyone I know before. But our dryer seems to be getting too hot during cycles. The clothes are way too hot when they come out, even on the lower settings. The heater element is still cycling on and off though which is think is normal. I’ve already checked the flow and the vents and everything seems to be square there. What would you recommend I check next. Do you think it’s the thermostat?
PartSelect logo
Hi Kealan, we recommend trying to dry a load with the vent unhooked from your dryer. If you are still experiencing these symptoms you could have a faulty dryer cycling thermostat WP3387134. I hope this helps!

85 people found this helpful.

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Tony
August 3, 2018
Have seen 2 different answers about continuity on thermostat internal bias. One said both should read 0 at room temperature. The other said the small terminals will read an "ohm value". Which is correct?
PartSelect logo
Hi Tony, Thank you for the question. You would need to check the outer 2 terminals on the thermostat for continuity. If this checks ok then test the inner smaller terminals for resistance of 4.5K ohms. Hope this helps!

66 people found this helpful.

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Dylan
July 20, 2017
My dryer is taking too long to dry the clothes in it and I am not over filling it. My friend suggested a blockage but we already checked for that. We also tried using the different settings and the only one that seems to be buggy and not working is the highest setting. So do you have any suggestions of parts to check or tests to try to fix this.
PartSelect logo
Hi Dylan, we recommend testing the temperature coming from the dryer when on high heat, which should be about 110 (low end) to 160 (high end) degrees. If your dryer is cycling before it hits the 150 degrees, you most likely have a faulty cycling thermostat. This can be tested with a multi-meter with temperature. Best of luck with this repair!

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Steve
February 8, 2018
Greetings, i recently replaced the thermal fuse, cleared the venting ducts, etc. The dryer started up right away, i thought all was well. However, the next day my daughter informed me that her dryer had stopped working again after drying a tablecloth for approximately 20 minutes. I suspect the thermostat is not cycling properly and is causing the dryer too overheat and blow the thermal fuse. Wondering if i should replace the thermostat and the thermal fuse(again). Thank you very much.
For model number IED4400VQ1
PartSelect logo
Hello Steve, thank you for your question. I would recommend changing the fuse, as well as the Thermostat, Internal-Bias WP3387134. This thermostat is in tune with the temperature of your dryer and regulates it in order to maintain a certain temperature. This thermostat reaches a temperature of 155 degrees, turns off, and then turns on again once it has dropped by 25 degrees. If the thermostat isn't turning off, the unit will overheat and the fuse will blow. I hope this helps!

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Marty
November 28, 2017
My dryer is not heating. Trouble shooting leads me to the internal-bias thermostat. Testing with an ohm meter shows continuity between the large terminals and open between the small terminals. Should the small ones read continuity or some resistance reading?
For model number 110.70702990
PartSelect logo
Hi Marty, Thank you for your question. Both sets of prongs should read 0 ohms at room temperature. If your meter needle does not move or your display does not change, the part is bad and will need to be replaced. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

30 people found this helpful.

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Leo
July 20, 2017
My dryer is turning on and “working” but it is not heating properly. It is a gas dryer and it doesn’t seem to have a problem igniting. What should I check?
PartSelect logo
Hi Leo, we recommend testing the coils 279834 to see if they are faulty. You can test them using a multi-meter tool. Please let us know if you have any further questions.

16 people found this helpful.

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Vic
August 25, 2017
How do you test thermostat internal-bias
For model number lgr4634pq0
PartSelect logo
Hi Vic, Thank you for your inquiry. To test to see if the internal bias thermostat is working you will need to use a multimeter to check the continuity of the part. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

15 people found this helpful.

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Danny
October 7, 2017
None of the components are testing bad. ? The thermal fuse, the high temp sensors, start switch, door switch, all are showing continuity or resistance. The heating element is good. I have only 2 choices left. The timer or the motor. The motor is last as it is hard to get to. The problems began when the timed dry cycle quit heating as it ran. So i used the auto-sense cycle and it worked great. Problem solved for 6 months. Yesterday i put the clothes in and set the timer and pushed start. Nothing! No hum, no buzz, nothing. Not on any cycle. Both parts left are expensive. So, is there a go, no go test for the motor? Would you be inclined to suspect the timer? How can i be sure it is one or the other? Thank you for the help.
For model number EED4400WQ0
PartSelect logo
Hello Danny, thank you for contacting us. It does not sound like an issue with the motor. It sounds like it would be the timer. The dryer timer is used to control the unit's cycles by regulating the length of time that power is directed to each setting. If it becomes faulty it could cause nothing to happen when you start a cycle or only work on certain cycles. Hope this helps!

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Related Parts:
Paul
November 2, 2017
How many ohms should the thermostat read when tested with a multi-meter?
For model number KEYE760WWH1
PartSelect logo
Hi Paul, Thank you for your question. Your meter should be set at the lowest setting. The thermostat should read 0 ohms. If your meter does not move when you test the part, it will have to be replaced. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

12 people found this helpful.

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Related Parts
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11741405
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3387134
Brand
Model Number
Description
Kenmore
11060012000
Dryer
Kenmore
11060012001
Dryer
Kenmore
11060012002
Dryer
Kenmore
11060022010
Dryer
Kenmore
1106012510
Dryer - ELECTRIC DRYER
Kenmore
1106012990
Dryer - Kenmore Dryer Model 110.6012990 (1106012990, 110 6012990) Parts
Kenmore
11060172000
Dryer
Kenmore
11060172001
Dryer
Kenmore
11060172002
Dryer
Kenmore
11060202990
Dryer
Kenmore
11060212990
Dryer
Kenmore
11060222511
Dryer - ELECTRIC DRYER
Kenmore
11060232000
Dryer
Kenmore
11060232001
Dryer
Kenmore
11060232002
Dryer
Kenmore
11060522900
Dryer
Kenmore
11060602990
Dryer
Kenmore
11060612990
Dryer
Kenmore
1106062110
Dryer
Kenmore
11060622990
Dryer
Kenmore
11060702990
Dryer
Kenmore
11060712990
Dryer
Kenmore
1106072011
Dryer - ELECTRIC DRYER
Kenmore
11060722990
Dryer
Kenmore
11060724990
Dryer
Kenmore
11060727990
Dryer
Kenmore
11060802990
Dryer
Kenmore
11060812990
Dryer
Kenmore
11060814990
Dryer
Kenmore
11060817990
Dryer
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