Part Location Diagram of WP65889-4 Whirlpool Run Capacitor
See part 18 in the diagram
Replacing your Amana Refrigerator Run Capacitor
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
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Run Capacitor

 Fits your LSD2615HEZ!
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2 Reviews
$84.81
  In Stock

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 Fits your LSD2615HEZ!
PartSelect Number PS11743364
Manufacturer Part Number WP65889-4
Manufactured by Whirlpool
Product Description

Run Capacitor Specifications

This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
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Replacing your Amana Refrigerator Run Capacitor

Replacing your Amana Refrigerator Run Capacitor
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Will Not Start | Freezer section too warm | Fridge too warm | Fridge and Freezer are too warm
This part works with the following products:
Refrigerator.
This part works with the following products:
Amana, Maytag, Kenmore, Admiral.
Part# WP65889-4 replaces these:
AP6010187, 14202659, 14217273, 2252799, 2255130, 61002974, 61003525, 65889-4, 65889-5, 65889-8, 65922-1, 66121-1, 8170450, 8170462, C8931604, C8931608, C8931610, C8931612
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.5 / 5.0, 24 reviews. What's this?
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The compressor would not run.
I removed the screws in the lower back panel where the compressor is located. Then I unplugged the capacitor and plugged the new one in. I then checked to see if the compressor would start. It wouldn't so I replaced the overload relay with capacitor and that fixed the problem. The capacitor just plugs into the relay then plugs into the compressor. There are several screws but all in all it is easy.
Other Parts Used:
Compressor Start Device and Capacitor
  • Gilbert from Clinton, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
325 of 371 people found this instruction helpful.
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loud hum from compressor, cycling overload switch, no cooling.
I could hear a loud hum from the compressor motor cycling on/off every 5-10 seconds. Pulled the capacitor and relay switch from the compressor. Checked compressor terminals with ohmmeter, no shorts to ground so it was ok. A gravely substance rained out of the overload relay switch when I removed it, so I assumed it was bad. Didn't need to check the capacitor as it was only another $20 or so to replace. Also didn't notice any oily residue that would signify a coolant leak, so assumed the system was still pressurized. New relay switch and capacitor plugged right in, no tools needed. Re-secured the assembly with it's original keeper clip wire and I was done. Plugged it in and made sure it was cooling properly before replacing the various back cover panels. Like a new reefer! Couldn't have been easier. Just be careful with the capacitor when you remove it. It could hold a lethal electric charge.
Other Parts Used:
Overload Relay Combination
  • Brian from Laura, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
76 of 82 people found this instruction helpful.
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Refrigerator
Removed back cover by removing 6 screws, vacuumed the dust out to make it less unpleasant and made sure I had the fridge far enough away from the wall to easily see. The kit was a little different from the relay that was in place - the old one on the compressor was encased in a small plastic carrier, and the replacement was two separate pieces, a short connector wire and a much bigger cover. I made sure the fridge was unplugged, then pulled off the wires (recorded what color went where) and pulled the relay with it's carrier from the compressor. I realized that the carrier was not to be reused, and pushed on the relay and the overload pieces, put on the provided white connector wire, connected the colored wires back to their new connections (orange wire now connects to white connector wire), and carefully snapped the new big cover over the wires and relay. Be careful with the wire routing - don't want to dislodge the connectors when putting on the cover. Remounted the back cover and plugged that puppy in - worked like a champ!
Other Parts Used:
Relay and Overload Kit
  • Bavo from Lafayette, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
52 of 60 people found this instruction helpful.
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Refrigerator had been working and still had lights and a running fan, but no cooling, everything had defrosted.
I didn't do it, my husband did. He removed the back panel and used an ohm meter to check the compressor and found that that was working so he decided to replace the overload relay and capacitator. He has an hour lunch and since the parts were in he decided to change it during his lunch hour. The minute he had them replaced....voila!! Cold again! We had a different fridge that had the same problem, but we thought it would be too expensive to fix so we junked it......wish we would have tried this!!! So proud of the hubby!
Other Parts Used:
Overload Relay Combination
  • Teresa from Baraboo, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
48 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
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Refridgerator/Freezer Not Cooling
First of all, let me say that I'm a 50 year old single woman. If I can do this repair, anyone can! After unscrewing the back of the unit that houses the compressor, I found the relay overload switch which is attached to the compressor. I pulled the part off and discovered that it comes in one piece. The replacement part came in 3 pieces. I intially thought they sent the wrong part. After a little thinking outside of the box, I figured out that the replacement part was indeed the correct part and that it comes in 3 pieces instead of one. It would have taken 5 minutes to repair if I had realized this early on. Once replaced, the refrigerator/freezer was cooling within 10 min. I sent the Run Capacitor back after telephoning a customer service rep. She was so courteous and helpful! What a fabulous company. I highly recommend. I saved myself approx. $250.00 doing it myself.
Other Parts Used:
Relay Overload Kit
  • Melinda from Modesto, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
45 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
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Refrigerator stopped cooling
Problem: My Maytag side by side door refrigerator just stopped cooling and has to discard all frozen items after I discovered being away for 3 days. First, I went to my computer and read some of the repair stories at Part Select “Need help with your repair?” and installation video guide.
1. I ordered the Refrigerator Adaptive Defrost Board (ADP) - followed the procedures how to disconnect and installed the new part. Unfortunately, it did not correct the problem and only warm is coming out.
2. I ordered the Defrost Heater Thermostat Assembly - removed the old and replaced with new assembly. Again, warm air coming out. Meanwhile, I kept on hearing “clicking sound every few second” not knowing where this coming from. Again, at Part Select, I read the story about it and I ordered the
Run Capacitor and the Overload/Relay with Capacitor. Soon as I opened the parts and tried to match it from the part at the back of the refrigerator and to the part from the compressor, I have discovered that they are not in compatible with the original parts from my Maytag Refrigerator and cannot be installed. And so I contacted (Email) Part Select customer service (Jeanette) if I could return the unused parts and had provided me the “Return address and the Reference Number”. This time, I gave Jeanette the Maytag Model and Serial numbers and asked where I could find this on my refrigerator and make the necessary repair and came back with the diagram and located #4 to the compressor. Ordered the correct part# PS2004058.
3. Upon receipt of the part above, I was puzzled, in the plastic container are four parts, included a plastic cover. I have not given up, I removed the original part encased in white plastic container pulled straight off the compressor and examined it closely. Before detaching all the wiring, I also noted before disconnecting from wire harness and read the Diagram/Instruction Sheet provided.
4. From the four new parts provided, installed the Overload Terminal, bottom part on Compressor with one terminal to the Blue wire. Connected White Jumper to the old harness. Lastly, I plugged the PTC Start Device (two terminals) above the Overload Terminal on the Compressor with the proper wiring as I previously noted and installed the electrical cover. “Plugged in the refrigerator to the power outlet”. To test the result, I left a glass of water inside the freezer and a bottle of wine into the refrigerator. The result - I checked after 2 hours, the water was frozen and a cool wine. “Little frustration included here, as I am not an electrician.” But now, I could say, I fixed it, and very proud of this accomplishment.
Thank You, PartSelect and to a great Customer Support!
Safety Note: Always make sure to unplugged the refrigerator (power off) prior doing the necessary repairs.
Rodolfo Julao/S. San Francisco, CA
Other Parts Used:
Compressor Start Device and Capacitor
  • Rodolfo from South San Francisco, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
40 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
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no cold air
Installed new parts worked great and most important wife was happy again
Other Parts Used:
Refrigerator Vertical Mullion Rail - Black Defrost Control Board Relay Overload
  • raymond from dallas, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
33 of 67 people found this instruction helpful.
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doesn't get cold at all and freezer was warm condenser wouldn't run
removed all 6 screws in back of fridge. located the condenser the relay was a white like circut to the left of the unit. The entire pience comes off easy using a flat screw driver to pry it off the pins.
The replacement came in 2 pieces insted of 1.
I replaced the relay and then the overload reconnected the wire harness back the way it was before. The new relay has a larger connector prong for the live wire so the kit comes with a jumper wire so the original wire harness can be used without splitting the cabel made the repair very easy. Also the new capacitor is bigger and better so I replaced that as well. The capacitor makes sure the relay gets stable current so its good to have a working one.
Other Parts Used:
Relay and Overload Kit
  • Jean from Fremont, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
27 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
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Clicking noise every 1 minute - Refrigerator ran continuously
unplug Ref. and on back of Ref., take back panel off to locate compressor. Attached to the compressor are 2 small parts, secured to the Ref. w/ a small clip. Remove the clip w/ a pair of plyers. Remove the Capacitor (white plastic electric part)form the Compressor - the black overload relay will come off with it. Plug the new relay in to the Capactor. Locate the two wires (used to connect the Ref. to the Capacitor) from the Ref, unplug them from the old Capacitor/Relay and plug them in to the new part(s). Plug the new parts back in to the Compressor. Reinstall the the small metal clip that holds the Capacitor/Relay in place. Plug Ref. back in - if no noise, parts have worked (allow 5+ mintues to test).
Other Parts Used:
Overload Relay Combination
  • Greg from Ellisville, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
24 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
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compressor not cycling on/compressor not pumping refrigerant
Using a nut driver I removed the lower back panel to gain access to the compressor.Removed a clip that held Run Capacitor and Overload Relay in place on the compressor.I removed the capacitor first then pulled the relay off from the compressor.Then I unplugged the wire harness from the relay.This job is very simple if you have original replacement parts in hand to re-install.PartSelect provided me with the exact replacement parts...
Update: My refrigerator has been running 6 weeks now.Soon after I sent the note above I had a Technician check for refrigerant in the system.There was none!The Technician,who replaced my evaporator-heater in November failed to plug properly the port on the compressor.So,this thing is now running better than before.It now makes ice in the same container at the same setting,in 6 hours instead of 8 hours.
Other Parts Used:
Overload Relay
  • keith from sarasota, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
21 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers

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38 questions answered by our experts.
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Cesar Galace
August 3, 2017
Run capacitor - is that another name for "starting relay" for this model of the refrigerator/freezer side-by-side door? I hear a clicking sound as if the compressor is trying to start, then about 2 to three minutes another clicking sound as if shuts off. Observing the cabinet light, it goes dim as if the compressor starts and brightens when it shuts off, but it never get the cabinet cold. I already ran it overnight hoping to get the cabinet cold in the morning, but it never get cold. My problem with the unit is, since i move it to my garage, it stops getting the cabinet cooler, and freezer don't get colder to freeze objects place in the cabinet.
For model number MSD2732GRW
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Hi Cesar, Thank you for your question. No the Start Relay and the Run Capacitor are two different parts on your Compressor. In most cases when you are experiencing the freezer for this particular model not getting cold enough, it is the Run Capacitor that is causing the problem. You should test this part with a multi-meter to see if it is malfunctioning for you. I would also suggest testing your Start Relay, Defrost Timer, and both your Evaporator and Condenser Fan Motors. As sometimes these could also be the parts giving you problems. I hope this helps!

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Stephen
April 10, 2018
In your advise to test parts with a multi-meter, you refer to you tube. Since those meters can test many things (i.E. Current, voltage, resistance),which is used to test parts and is the part tested while it is installed in the refrigerator?
For model number Amana ARS2667AB
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Hello Stephen, thank you for your question. The part needs to be removed from the compressor to be tested. To test the capacitor with a multimeter, set the meter to read in the high ohms range, somewhere above 10k and 1m ohms. Touch the meter leads to the corresponding leads on the capacitor, red to positive and black to negative. The meter should start at zero and then moving slowly toward infinity. I hope this helps!

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Kate
August 30, 2017
I first noticed my refrigerator was up to 50 degrees. My freezer had icicles hanging inside because my ice cubes were melting. I noticed that 41% of the time the part i need is a capacitator. Do you think this is correct.
For model number MZD2766GEQ
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Hi Kate, Thank you for your inquiry. Yes, this could be one of the parts that are causing your issue. I would suggest checking your capacitor, start relay and overload, and also your defrost thermostat. You can check all of these parts with a multi-meter. Good luck with your repair.

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Lars
March 9, 2018
About once a week, the compressor does not come on. Turning power off and on seems to fix the problem for about a week. The run capacitor seems to check ok with a multi meter. Could it still be causing the intermittent failure to start?Thanks, lars
For model number JCD2389GEB
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Hi Lars, Thank you for your question. If the run capacitor checks out okay, then the next parts that I would check would be the relay and overload. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

6 people found this helpful.

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Ted
May 1, 2018
This is a Maytag refrigerator. Both the refrigerator top part and the freezer stopped cooling and got warm. We heard a humming sound that lasts various periods, maybe 10 to 20 seconds and this happens every minute or so, then the sound shuts off. This pattern keeps repeating. We then shut power off to the refrigerator overnight by switching the breaker off. The next morning, we switched the breaker on and both the refrigerator and the freezer worked properly and got cold. After about 7 hours, the humming started again as described. We turned the breaker off again overnight, and again the refrigerator and freezer worked normally with no humming or clicking. After about 7 hours again, the humming and shutting off sound returned just as before. The air seems to be very gently blowing inside the fridge and freezer at all times, and the compressor sounds as though it is running all times. The humming sounds seem as thought they are coming from the bottom back of the fridge.
For model number MBB1956GEW
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Hi Ted, Thank you for your question. If the refrigerator and freezer section are getting too warm, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which ones are causing the issue. You will need to check the run capacitor, the condenser fan motor, the overload relay combination and the evaporator fan motor. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Rodney
November 1, 2017
Cleared drain in freezer section, now freezer not getting cold and fan running constantly
For model number msd2454grw
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Hi Rodney, Thank you for your question. I would suggest checking your run capacitor and your start relay. You should also check the thermostats inside of your appliance as well. It could be that they are reading the wrong temperature. You can test all of these parts with a multi meter. Good luck with your repair.

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Claire
February 18, 2018
Admiral designer series (black side by side w/water, cubes and crushed ice) Hmg671841 Need to set temp all the way up before fridge will kick in we can then lower temp to desired setting; when temp gets below that setting it will not kick back in could this part be the problem? will part number wp65889 4 work on this fridge? thanx
For model number HMG671841
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Hello Claire, thank you for your question. The issue might be the temperature control thermostat part number WP61001673. This is what you turn to select different temperature settings for the fridge. If the thermostat is not the issue, the issue could be the Run Capacitor part number WP65889-4. This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature. I hope this helps!

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Joe
March 11, 2018
Excessive running fan is running with no issues coils are clean the lines coming out of the condenser are cold and are not freezing up return line is warm and not very hot when it starts running it continues for 45 minutes to 1hr before it shuts off is there a thermostat in there that is causing the excessive running time ?????
For model number RTT1700DAE
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Hi Joe, Thank you for your question. If your refrigerator is constantly running, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which ones are causing the issue, You will need to check, the defrost thermostat, the defrost heater and the defrost timer. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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John
March 21, 2018
Does my refrigerator have a run capacitor and if so where is it located? Either my capacitor or relay and overload units are bad. Thanks
For model number ET189NKXDW01
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Hello John, thank you for your question. Yes, your fridge would have a Relay and Overload Kit (which is the same as a run capacitor and overload). The part number is 4387913 and these parts are located under a square black cover mounted to the the compressor itself! I hope this information helps!

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Bryce
March 26, 2018
My refrigerator stopped cooling the freezer and fridge but the light does come on. I unplugged the unit for a few hours and took the back panel off to see if the fan would come on when i plugged the fridge back in. No such luck, shall i try and replace the run capacitor?
For model number amana arb1914cc
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Hi Bryce, Thank you for your question. If the refrigerator and the freezer are not cooling, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which ones are causing the issue. You will need to check the run capacitor, the condenser fan motor kit, the overload relay combination and the freezer evaporator fan motor. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11743364
Manufacturer Part Number: WP65889-4
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10648212500
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10649212701
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Kenmore
10650212010
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10650212011
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Kenmore
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