Product Description
Water Inlet Valve - 120V Specifications
This water inlet valve is specially designed for those dishwashers of the vertical axis style and comes with a mounting bracket. The attaching solenoids on the valve open and close according to the desired amount of water needed.
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Part Videos
Replacing your Maytag Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve - 120V
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Will not fill with water | Leaking | Not cleaning dishes properly | Not draining
This part works with the following products:
Dishwasher.
This part works with the following products:
Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Crosley.
Part# WP99001359 replaces these:
AP6014364, 903400, 99001359, WP99001359VP
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R.L. M - April 1, 2023
Verified Purchase
New intake solenoid
Took a little longer to install than I thought, but I aren't getting any younger. Have got it working like a charm. Even cleaned the filters! Wonderful machine. Lab grade and I am a Microbiologist. Thanks.
Marc P - October 30, 2021
Verified Purchase
Worked great
Fast shipping and part worked perfectly!
David M W - June 25, 2020
Verified Purchase
Replacement was correct part ...
The part was the correct replacement part and easily installed, however, required a special elbow faucet part which was incorporated into the old part, and this elbow was not indicated and not easily available. Would have been super if this extra part had been identified and offered. Delivery of replacement part was very fast.
David S - June 23, 2020
Verified Purchase
Dishwasher Repair
I have not received the part yet apparently they have lost it and delivery delivered to wrong address they are trying to recover and redeliver two weeks now I don't think I'll be getting it. Had to buy part elsewhere and fixed dishwasher and if they do not recover it I guess they have to reimburse me sorry I never got to use your part and if they do recover it I will most likely be returning it to you but that's very unlikely if they haven't recovered it by now I don't think they will
Carolyn D - April 16, 2019
Verified Purchase
Fit and worked perfect, fairly timely delivery.
Will definitely be a returning customer.
Selene V - January 25, 2019
Verified Purchase
Worked perfectly
Quick delivery, part was exactly what I needed. My dishes are clean again!!!
John K - November 5, 2018
Verified Purchase
Great service, but a no fix.
Great service in getting the part and instruction video. Unfortunately the part didn't fix the problem. I then replaced the flotation switch. It didn't fix the problem. Not sure what the issue is. Any suggestion would be helpful.
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.3 / 5.0, 26 reviews.
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dishwasher tub overfilled between uses and flooded kitchen
Remove lower cover to expose the motor, valves and electrical connections. turn off water supply and electrical circuit breaker. Disconnect leads from float switch. Remove float switch with a single phillips head screw. Replace with new one and attach leads---very easy.
Remove water inlet electrical connections--remember which goes to which connector. Disconnect hot watter supply with open ended box wrench.
Remove water inlet valve from washer wall by unscrewing two sheet metal screws. Use 1/4" socket and 3" extension for this. Use pliers to release the hose clamp holding the rubber water line onto the valve outlet stem. Reverse this sequence to intall the new switch. Moderately easy. Have sponge and paper towels to soak up spills when you do the disconnects.
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Remove water inlet electrical connections--remember which goes to which connector. Disconnect hot watter supply with open ended box wrench.
Remove water inlet valve from washer wall by unscrewing two sheet metal screws. Use 1/4" socket and 3" extension for this. Use pliers to release the hose clamp holding the rubber water line onto the valve outlet stem. Reverse this sequence to intall the new switch. Moderately easy. Have sponge and paper towels to soak up spills when you do the disconnects.
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Other Parts Used:
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michael from cambridge, MA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
67 of 83 people
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The dishwasher wouldn't fill with water.
I first turned off the water to the dishwasher, then the electricity to it, then took off the front bottom access panel, I then unbolted the inlet valve from the side of the machine, undid the electrical hookups remembering which one connected to which, then unclamped the two hoses, I then put the new one back in place, redoing the hoses and electrical and bolting it back to the side of the machine, then putting the front bottom access panel back on, then turning back on the water and electicity. The one thing that may make it easier if you can is to pull the dishwasher out from under the cabinets and lay it down so the bottom is exposed. This would make the process a little smoother.
Other Parts Used:
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Jared from Rutland, VT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Wrench (Adjustable)
34 of 36 people
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Water Valve would not open to allow water into DishWasher
First, I removed the foot plate(s) at the bottom of the Dishwasher. (2 screws each side)
Then I removed the two top screws at the front of the dish-washer. The screws were mounted into a board under the counter that had broken loose. (A minor secondary issue specific to my situation.)
I gently inched the dishwasher out from under the cabinets.
SLOWLY, I tipped the dishwasher over on its side, allowing the water still inside to drain into a pan. Minor cleanup required for the cup or two that missed.
I then had access to the part. I disconnected the power from the wall socket, and I closed the valve for the inlet water from under the sink.
I removed the screws holding the Water Valve to the DishWasher case. Then I took a sharpie and marked one side of one of the two power connectors, black-mark to black-mark.
When I went to disconnect the inlet pipe, there was more dripping than I expected, so the valve under the sink was not closing completely. I needed to shut off the water supply to the house for the next stage.
I disconnected the inlet water supply, which continued to drip slightly into a bucket. I then removed the coupler from the old water valve. It was badly clogged and corroded, so I went to a local HW store and found an exact match 3/8" to 3/8" right angle coupler with compression fitting on one end.
BIG TRICK, before installing the new coupler, WRAP the compression fitting threads with teflon tape. You will not be able to wrap it once it is installed. In fact, I needed to uninstall the part once after I discovered this, to wrap the threads smoothly.
Once pre-wrapped, wrap the other threads that screw into the water valve. Tighten until secure, AND aligned with the direction of the flow tubes of the original.
Match the electrical connectors, black-mark to the same position as before. (The new water valve will NOT have the black-mark on it, unless you transfer one!)
Connect the Water valve back to the Dish Washer chassis with the two screws previously removed.
Connect the inlet water back to the compression fitting with the pre-wrapped threads.
Gently return the dishwasher to upright, and then plug it in.
Open the valve under the sink slowly and watch for drips or leaks.
Run the dishwasher at the start of a cycle, long enough to determine that the valve activates, and allows water to flow. Then stop the cycle.
Gently walk the dishwasher back under the counter, observing that you do not kink the copper water inlet pipe, or the drain pipe.
Adjust the feet, if necessary, back to fully support and level the dishwasher.
Install the two screws holding the dishwasher to the cabinet front. Then install the kick plates and tighten those 4 screws.
Clean up any residual water from the process.
Then I removed the two top screws at the front of the dish-washer. The screws were mounted into a board under the counter that had broken loose. (A minor secondary issue specific to my situation.)
I gently inched the dishwasher out from under the cabinets.
SLOWLY, I tipped the dishwasher over on its side, allowing the water still inside to drain into a pan. Minor cleanup required for the cup or two that missed.
I then had access to the part. I disconnected the power from the wall socket, and I closed the valve for the inlet water from under the sink.
I removed the screws holding the Water Valve to the DishWasher case. Then I took a sharpie and marked one side of one of the two power connectors, black-mark to black-mark.
When I went to disconnect the inlet pipe, there was more dripping than I expected, so the valve under the sink was not closing completely. I needed to shut off the water supply to the house for the next stage.
I disconnected the inlet water supply, which continued to drip slightly into a bucket. I then removed the coupler from the old water valve. It was badly clogged and corroded, so I went to a local HW store and found an exact match 3/8" to 3/8" right angle coupler with compression fitting on one end.
BIG TRICK, before installing the new coupler, WRAP the compression fitting threads with teflon tape. You will not be able to wrap it once it is installed. In fact, I needed to uninstall the part once after I discovered this, to wrap the threads smoothly.
Once pre-wrapped, wrap the other threads that screw into the water valve. Tighten until secure, AND aligned with the direction of the flow tubes of the original.
Match the electrical connectors, black-mark to the same position as before. (The new water valve will NOT have the black-mark on it, unless you transfer one!)
Connect the Water valve back to the Dish Washer chassis with the two screws previously removed.
Connect the inlet water back to the compression fitting with the pre-wrapped threads.
Gently return the dishwasher to upright, and then plug it in.
Open the valve under the sink slowly and watch for drips or leaks.
Run the dishwasher at the start of a cycle, long enough to determine that the valve activates, and allows water to flow. Then stop the cycle.
Gently walk the dishwasher back under the counter, observing that you do not kink the copper water inlet pipe, or the drain pipe.
Adjust the feet, if necessary, back to fully support and level the dishwasher.
Install the two screws holding the dishwasher to the cabinet front. Then install the kick plates and tighten those 4 screws.
Clean up any residual water from the process.
Other Parts Used:
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Bob from Allen, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
32 of 44 people
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No water in the washer barrel
Diagnosed potential problem from scematic diagram found at Parts Select .Com by entering model #. It was very likely the inlet water solenoid. Tear down was simple: Turn off water, disconnect water lines to and from solenoid, disconnect two electric terminals and remove part by removing two screws from dishwasher chasis. Before you buy the new solenoid, unscrew the water inlet elbow from solenoid and check the filter/screen inside the solenoid to make sure it isn't clogged. Assuming it's not, order the replacement part and reinstall in reverse order. Be sure to use plumber's tape on screw connections to make sure there are no leaks..... Also for ease of acces, you'll need to turn the dishwaher down on it's front. Put towels down to cushion the front and keep the controls from contact with the floor. Good luck!!
Other Parts Used:
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Terry from Great Falls, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Wrench set
12 of 14 people
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No water would flow into the dishwasher.
I had diagnosed the problem by checking the resistance at the water inlet electrical terminals and their was no continuity. 1. I shut off the water and removed the lower access/kick panels. 2. Then I disconnected the two wires from the inlet valve terminals noting which one went to which terminal (I'm a bad person since I did not disconnect power from the dishwasher while doing this so it is up to you to decide if the time saved is worth the possible consequences). 3. Using an open end wrench I loosened and disconnected the water supply line. 4. Remove the two screws securing the valve assembly to the inside wall of the dishwasher 5. Loosen the clamp on the water outlet line and slide off the hose. Installation is pretty much the same in reverse. Some times the valve assembly comes with the wire terminals oriented in a different direction than what you may find when you take yours off. If it won't work for you, remove the four screws that hold the electrical side of the inlet valve and rotate it to the needed position. Make sure when putting it back together that you tighten the screws evenly to prevent leaks.
Other Parts Used:
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Jack from Robinson, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
10 of 13 people
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Tub was mysteriously slowly filling with water.
Figured out that the only thing that could be causing this was a bad inlet valve. Repair was really easy. Didn't even have to pull machine out from under cabinet. First removed kick plate. Then placed towel under the old valve. Undid the power connections and water lines (in and out). removed the to screws holding the valve to the body of the washer. With the valve free, removed the brass elbow and installed it on the new valve. Reinstalled the valve and all connections. Works like a charm.
Other Parts Used:
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Mark from Austin, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
7 of 7 people
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Dishes were not getting totally clean.
I did not move the dishwasher out. It is a fairly tight space underneath, but the water inlet valve is located toward the front, so it wasn't too bad. The steps were:
1) unplug the power and turn off the water to the dishwasher.
2) remove the 2 wire connectors.
3) use the nutdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the valve to the side of the dishwasher.
4) use a wrench (5/8") to remove the nut where the water goes into the valve. This takes some patience since you can't turn the wrench very far in the tight space.
5) remove the water outlet hose by using pliers to squeeze together the clamp and move it up the hose. Then twist the valve to free the hose and remove it from the valve. The nibs on the clamp are small and take a little time to get them squeezed together. If the hose has been on there a long time, you will have to twist the valve a few times to free it up.
6) now you will have to remove the sleeve that the nut was screwed onto. I had to take the valve to my vise to hold it. Then it wasn't too hard to remove.
7) use teflon tape before you reassemble. Just go in the reverse order.
8) hope there isn't a leak. Mine didn't.
The new water inlet valve seems to have fixed the problem!
1) unplug the power and turn off the water to the dishwasher.
2) remove the 2 wire connectors.
3) use the nutdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the valve to the side of the dishwasher.
4) use a wrench (5/8") to remove the nut where the water goes into the valve. This takes some patience since you can't turn the wrench very far in the tight space.
5) remove the water outlet hose by using pliers to squeeze together the clamp and move it up the hose. Then twist the valve to free the hose and remove it from the valve. The nibs on the clamp are small and take a little time to get them squeezed together. If the hose has been on there a long time, you will have to twist the valve a few times to free it up.
6) now you will have to remove the sleeve that the nut was screwed onto. I had to take the valve to my vise to hold it. Then it wasn't too hard to remove.
7) use teflon tape before you reassemble. Just go in the reverse order.
8) hope there isn't a leak. Mine didn't.
The new water inlet valve seems to have fixed the problem!
Other Parts Used:
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Dennis from Liberty, MO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
7 of 8 people
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The inlet valve on hte dishwasher was bad
I simply connected the two hoses to the valve plugged in the two wires and it was working!
Other Parts Used:
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Scott from menan, ID
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
6 of 12 people
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Door leak and leak on inlet valve
I replaced the door latch grommet just as everyone else has described on this site. It was pretty easy. I was amazed that such a little piece of rubber can let so much water get by. The inlet valve was not too bad either. Take the two bolts out that hold the bracket to the dishwasher. Remove the rubber hose on the back side and take loose the two electrical connections. My water line was long enough to pull it out in front of the dishwasher. Then I took the water line loose and removed the fitting. Installed the new one in reverse order of what I just described. These items took care of the bulk of the leaking problem. But I am in the process of ordering a new door seal which I hope resolves the rest of the issue. Also make sure you check the upper and lower control arms to make sure the spray holes are free of debris. This dishwasher was full of pieces of clear plastic that caused the spray arms to spray indirectly and towards the cracks of the doors.
Other Parts Used:
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April from Valdosta, GA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
5 of 5 people
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water not flowing into dishwasher
turn off breaker
turn off water supply line
note wire color locations on notepad
disconnect 2 spade lugs (pliers)
disconnect inlet line (adj. wrench)
disconnect outlet line (pliers on hose clamp)
remove old valve assembly (4 screws w/nutdriver)
remove ground jumper from old valve
remove inlet pipe ell from old unit (vise & pliers)
clean open end of pipe ell (file)
apply teflon dope tape to pipe threads
install pipe ell on new valve
reorient solenoid 90degrees cw to match Maytag installation
reinstall ground jumper
install new valve assembly in dishwasher
reconnect hose and hose clamp
reconnect inlet line
reconnect spade lugs
turn on supply line, check for leaks
turn on breaker
start washer at appropriate cycle to test water flow
done!
turn off water supply line
note wire color locations on notepad
disconnect 2 spade lugs (pliers)
disconnect inlet line (adj. wrench)
disconnect outlet line (pliers on hose clamp)
remove old valve assembly (4 screws w/nutdriver)
remove ground jumper from old valve
remove inlet pipe ell from old unit (vise & pliers)
clean open end of pipe ell (file)
apply teflon dope tape to pipe threads
install pipe ell on new valve
reorient solenoid 90degrees cw to match Maytag installation
reinstall ground jumper
install new valve assembly in dishwasher
reconnect hose and hose clamp
reconnect inlet line
reconnect spade lugs
turn on supply line, check for leaks
turn on breaker
start washer at appropriate cycle to test water flow
done!
Other Parts Used:
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Doug from Cornish, ME
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
5 of 7 people
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Questions and Answers
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MARIE
December 25, 2017
How do i turn my water and power off to start with? Thanks so much--this is a fabulous website
For model number MDB6000AWB
Hi Marie,
Thank you for your question. You would have to turn the water off from your home to your fridge. There should be a valve shut off where you can do that. Either in a utility area or just behind your fridge. To turn off power to the appliance you can either unplug it or you could turn it off at your electrical box. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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David
March 21, 2018
My dish washer gets water in bottom but dose not spray water from top or bottom sprayers but dose get a little water in bottom of dish washer, will this part fix problem sounds like pump is working but no water pressure.
For model number DDW361RAW
Hi David, Thank you for the question. The Motor and Pump Housing Kit, PartSelect Number: PS2340913 circulates the water up through the spray arms. If the water is not circulating the pump may need to be replaced. Hope this helps!
2 people found this helpful.
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Jim
July 1, 2019
Is p/n ps11747602 a replacement part for p/n ps2097242?
For model number Maytag model MDC4100AWE
Hello Jim, thank you for writing. This Water Inlet Valve part PS11747602 is the correct replacement part for your model. We hope this helps.
2 people found this helpful.
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Robert
August 30, 2022
does the inlet valve come with the solenoid
For model number mdb5000awb
Hi Robert,
Thank you for your question. Yes, the solenoid comes with the water inlet valve. If you need help placing an order for it, customer service is open 7 days a week and anyone will be happy to assist you. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
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Related Parts
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11747602
Manufacturer Part Number: WP99001359
Manufacturer Part Number: WP99001359
Brand
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