Product Description
Cycling Thermostat - 4 Wire Specifications
This thermostat helps to regulate the dryer's internal temperature. L210-30F
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Part Videos
Replacing your General Electric Dryer Cycling Thermostat - 4 Wire
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Too hot
This part works with the following products:
Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Hotpoint, Whirlpool, Kenmore.
Part# WE4M181 replaces these:
AP2044414, 276464, WE4M181, WE04M0181, WE4M245
Customer Reviews
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Marlene C - September 7, 2023
Verified Purchase
Easy Repair, Great Part. my appliance is working perfectly!
The part came very fast! it wasnt hard to install it and now i have a working dryer. Very happy.
Robert L - November 18, 2018
Verified Purchase
wrong part
The diagnostic tool on your website is not precise enough at this point. By replacing both thermostats ( high cut and cycling) changed nothing. I now know that the problem is with my heating element which only partially works and seems to short circuit. Symptom: The dryer only works for a few minutes and shuts itself down. The best way is to verify the element is visually and with a multimeter. On this particular model General electric PVXR363EH7WW the element ( stupid design) is big and delicate and too expensive to replace. I will order a new dryer. Not A GE. and nothing with electronics. Basic and simple is better in my book when comes time to repair it.
Edna A - August 24, 2018
Verified Purchase
Easy Repair
The service was excellent, received the part quickly, unfortunately I had ordered the wrong one and had to order a different part. Again the service excellent and the return process was painless and simple to use. Highly recommend this company, their instruction videos are wonderful and very informative. Thankyou PartSelect
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.1 / 5.0, 8 reviews.
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Dryer would get very hot and then turn off
It was actually my father, he doesn't use the internet. He thought that because the dyer got real hot and then shut off he thought the thermostat wasn't working and the high temp shutoff was okay. He went through the manual and found the part and took it out. He called the service number but they wanted $50 dollars plus shipping. I saw it was a Thermo-disc part so I tried the manufacture's website but I couldn't match the numbers on the back to their part numbers. I tried several other sites and your site was the cheapest. It was real easy to use the web site and diagrams to find the right schematic and part. I ordered it online and it was delivered in 2 days with the regular shipping. When he first put it in the dyer didn't turn on. He found no power coming out of the timer so he cleaned the contacts and it worked. Thanks for making the ordering so easy.
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David from Auburn, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
273 of 562 people
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Overheats,(timer doesn't move) on auto cycles, works ok on time dry.
Replaced cycle thermostat.
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Howard from COVENTRY, RI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
17 of 18 people
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Dryer Overheat & Shutoff
I reviewed the video instructions on the website; these were invaluable to understand the task. Since the dryer drum had to be removed to replace the thermostat, it was prudent to replace the drive belt at disassembly. Great job on the videos to see the extra effort required to install the new belt around the tensioner pulley while supporting the drum. I will use this site again when a need arises, because they are quick to ship the ordered part(s) and help the DIY handyman make repairs via the videos.
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Gary from MARTINEZ, GA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
16 of 18 people
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Would not heat up
Took the few screws out replaced the part then put it back together.
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Marty from BOX SPRINGS, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Low heat
Checked the fuse box to see if any breakers tripped on the two 120 lines feeding the dryer.
Checked for clogged exhaust vents/hose/etc, cleaned.
Some paint flaking off inner drum around heat vent.
Unplug & disassembled unit. Took pictures for reference to help with reassembly later. Upon removing drum, found sagging heat coils, one broken, some heat damage to the housing near the top. Determined that more than just coils needed replacing.
Also checked each of the three heat sensors (cycling thermostat, high limit thermostat & safety thermostat) with the digital multimeter. All were positive continuity for low temps.
Tested ONLY the cycling thermostat on the kitchen stove with burner set to warm. Check burner temp with meat thermometer to see it exceed 120F. Continuity broke at high temp. Although the cycling thermostat seemed ok with my generic test, I decided to replace it anyway.
My understanding of the Safety Thermostat & High Limit Thermostat is that they work like safety fuses, breaking at dangerous temps, but not resetting afterward. So these were only tested at room temperature, not with heat.
With the unit open, I checked other components for signs of wearing out. Also cleaned the unit more thoroughly.
Reassembled in stages. The belt is the trickiest part to get back on the motor & tension pulley, it's just a little awkward to reach. Tested to make sure the drum moved freely and belt was correct before finishing the reassembly.
Checked to make sure the dryer was still level, after all the moving around, disassembly & reassembly.
Ran several supervised test loads. Felt the temperature. No tripped breakers or smoke. Exhaust was flowing unhindered. Clothes got dry.
Checked for clogged exhaust vents/hose/etc, cleaned.
Some paint flaking off inner drum around heat vent.
Unplug & disassembled unit. Took pictures for reference to help with reassembly later. Upon removing drum, found sagging heat coils, one broken, some heat damage to the housing near the top. Determined that more than just coils needed replacing.
Also checked each of the three heat sensors (cycling thermostat, high limit thermostat & safety thermostat) with the digital multimeter. All were positive continuity for low temps.
Tested ONLY the cycling thermostat on the kitchen stove with burner set to warm. Check burner temp with meat thermometer to see it exceed 120F. Continuity broke at high temp. Although the cycling thermostat seemed ok with my generic test, I decided to replace it anyway.
My understanding of the Safety Thermostat & High Limit Thermostat is that they work like safety fuses, breaking at dangerous temps, but not resetting afterward. So these were only tested at room temperature, not with heat.
With the unit open, I checked other components for signs of wearing out. Also cleaned the unit more thoroughly.
Reassembled in stages. The belt is the trickiest part to get back on the motor & tension pulley, it's just a little awkward to reach. Tested to make sure the drum moved freely and belt was correct before finishing the reassembly.
Checked to make sure the dryer was still level, after all the moving around, disassembly & reassembly.
Ran several supervised test loads. Felt the temperature. No tripped breakers or smoke. Exhaust was flowing unhindered. Clothes got dry.
Other Parts Used:
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Jaeson from STATE COLLEGE, PA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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Dryer was over heating and shutting off after like 5 minutes, the back was hot to touch..got the cycling thermostat problem solved
4 screws to open it up,pull out the wheel and there it is on back . Pretty easy..
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Bruce from CHANUTE, KS
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 person
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was not heating cheak parts select they recomended to purchaged the thermostat check vidio for installetion now working fine thanks
watched vidio from the site.just follow the instructions, And was able to fixed the problem.
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Francisco from WEST COVINA, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person
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Heat thermostat,now replacing the drum bearing with your kit..
By watching your video which was very helpful as I never made this repair before. All worked out fine. Since then I have ordered other parts., (drum bearing kit, door slides and a new belt.) The video on replacing the drum kit is very helpful too. One other fact is prices beat all other sites I looked and when I'm done the dryer will be "rebuilt" I recommend your parts to everyone., they are great quality.
Other Parts Used:
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Tony from POTTSVILLE, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
1 of 2 people
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Frank
August 23, 2017
My dryer starts and shuts off in about 20 seconds. Do you have any suggestions?
For model number GTDP180GDOWW
Hello Frank, thank you for contacting us. That does sound like it could be the thermostat. It prevents the heating element from getting too hot, if this part is faulty it could send readings that it is too hot when hardly any heat is coming out. Hope this helps!
22 people found this helpful.
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SOLLIE
September 28, 2017
My dryer works perfectly but no heat. How to i troubleshoot it to see which part it is. Looks like there are a couple different options.
For model number NVLR333EE0WW
Hi Sollie,
Thank you for your question. I would first suggest testing your thermal fuse and your thermostats. Then I would suggest testing your heating element and your door switch. You can test all of those parts with a multi meter. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
14 people found this helpful.
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Beverly
November 6, 2017
The dryer overheats , it continues to get hotter to the touch every second until u unplug it. I suspect it's the thermostat. Is there more than one on this machine?Could it be the heating element also going out?
For model number DBLR333EE0WW
Hi Beverly,
Thank you for your question. Actually, it sounds like you may want to check to see if any of your venting is blocked. A lot of the time with this particular design of dryer, the diffuser in the back of your drum (the part with all your holes in it) will get clogged up with link and dust particles from your clothes. I would suggest first checking to see if you need to clean that part or any of the vents in your appliance. When you are getting that hot to the touch at the top of your dryer, it means that the air is not flowing properly. Now because of that some of your thermostats or your fuses may have burned out. So after you clean up all your venting, I would suggest testing your thermostats and fuses with a multi meter to see if they are all working correctly. They should all be reading 0 when you test them. If your meter does not move while testing the parts, they are bad and need to be replaced. I hope this helps. Good luck with your repair.
10 people found this helpful.
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Jackie
September 27, 2017
My dryer doesn't heat on "auto cottons" main dial setting. The "auto perma press" dial setting does heat (seems almost too hot, but I don't know it could just be me). The "fabric care" setting is turned to "cottons reg heat". Which part would you recommend?
For model number dwsr475ey0ww
Hi Jackie, Thank you for the question. I suggest replacing the Cycling Thermostat.This thermostat helps to regulate the dryer's internal temperature during the cycles. When defective the dryer can over heat on some cycles or not heat up at all. Hope this helps!
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Sarah
November 22, 2017
This is sarah following up on my earlier question about my dryer not stopping automatically on sensor cycles. It was suggested i investigate the timer. I checked out the timer with my multimeter (and the very handy wiring diagram i found inside the control panel when i opened it!), and the timer appears to be fine. It looks like the problem is with the printed circuit board.
For model number PTDN600EM1WT
Hi Sarah,
Thank you for getting back to us. If the part you are looking for is the circuit board, we do have it available and the part number for it is PS755815. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Joe
December 27, 2017
On 2 separate occasions, halfway through the easy care cycle, the dial stopped and the drum stopped rotating, but the heat kept staying on. If the problem was with the belt, the pulley or the motor fuse, as you suggested before, it would seem that after the first time this happens, the dryer wouldn't return back to normal functioning again. However, this only happened twice and the dryer has been functioning normally again after these 2 incidents. This is why i was suspecting a malfunctioning of either the safety thermostat and/or the cycling thermostat, which i am not sure is the same thing as the timer. Based on this information alone and without testing anything, in your professional opinion, which part would have the most likelihood of causing this malfunction? Thanks so much for your help.
For model number DHDSR46EE1WW
Hi Joe,
Thank you for your question. Unfortunately you will have to test parts to determine which one is malfunctioning. Otherwise you would blindly replacing parts that may not exactly be what the issue is. All your cycling thermostat does is measure the temperature inside of your drum to make sure it is staying within a certain range. It cycles on and off while measuring temperature to keep it at a constant heat. Now the high limit thermostat measures the temperature of your heating element. It makes sure that the heating element does not get above a certain temperature. You will have to test both parts to see if either of them are not working. You can use a multi meter for that. Both parts should read 0 ohms when testing. You should test your heating element and your thermal fuses as well while you have your machine apart. Just to make sure they are all working properly. If all of those parts are fine, as we suggested previously, you should then test your door switch and your timer to make sure they are both working properly. Good luck with your repair Joe.
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Ken
January 16, 2018
My issue is that i’m not getting full heat from the dryer. It runs fine and completes all the cycles, but with low heat. I have my dryer apart and the heating element looks fine. Problem is that only the inner most coil heats up and the outer coil stays cool. The heating element looks fine. There are no breaks or any visible problems noted. My first thought is that perhaps the cycling thermostat is at fault. My question is this. What tells both coils to heat up? Since it doesn’t get too hot, the high temp thermostat isn’t the problem. Don’t have a multimeter but is there any other sensor that would stop both coils from heating up? Could it be the temperature selector swith itself?
For model number dhdsr48ef2ww
Hi Ken,
Thank you for your question. Based on what you described, it sounds like the heating element may have to replaced, but the part that fixes the issue the majority of the time is the cycling thermostat. I would test both parts with a multimeter to verify which one is working correctly. Some other parts you will need to check are the high limit thermostat and the internal bias thermostat. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Sarah
November 17, 2017
My dryer functions correctly on time dry, but does not shut off when on sensor dry. I've checked the sensor bars and the wiring connections to them, and they look fine. Do you have a suggestion for which part to investigate next? This dryer is only 6 years old.
For model number PTDN600EM1WT
Hi Sarah, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the Timer,PartSelect Number PS3654187.This dryer timer is used to control the unit's cycles by regulating the length of time that power is directed to each setting.Hope this helps!
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ANITA
November 10, 2017
My dryer dosent get hot. It works on one cycle on and off and not the other cycle.
For model number DBXR453GT3WW
Hi Anita,
Thank you for your inquiry. The cycling thermostat is just one part that you will need to check. There are some other parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the coils, the igniter with bracket and wire harness, the heat detector, the duct felt seal, and the high limit thermostat. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Randy
November 13, 2017
Time dry seems to work , but sensor dry settings do not!
For model number GTDP490ED71S
Hi Randy,
Thank you for your inquiry. If timer dry is working and sensor dry is not working, then the timer is worn out on that setting and you will need to replace the timer. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS267926
Manufacturer Part Number: WE4M181
Manufacturer Part Number: WE4M181
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