Single Outlet Valve Kit
$86.06
Special Order
PartSelect Number
PS304375
Manufacturer Part Number
WR57X10033
Manufactured by
GE
Product Description
Single Outlet Valve Kit Specifications
This single outlet valve has 1/4 inch compression fittings, and is intended for use with refrigerators that have ice makers that make crescent shaped ice cubes.
NOTE: As per the manufacturer this valve has new quick connection. You must cut retaining nut off of the current plastic water line and gently push it into new valve. To remove, depress ring that the tube slides into.
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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Ice maker not making ice | Leaking | Ice maker won’t dispense ice | Not dispensing water
This part works with the following products:
Refrigerator, Freezer, Ice Maker.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Kenmore, Hotpoint.
Part# WR57X10033 replaces these:
AP3189335, 914151, WR57X10033, 66049, SWR57X0090, SWR57X0093, SWR57X90, SWR57X93, WR57X0090, WR57X0093, WR57X0095, WR57X0096, WR57X0102, WR57X0110, WR57X10015, WR57X10034, WR57X10049, WR57X10063, WR57X10075, WR57X102
...
Show more
, WR57X110, WR57X21266, WR57X90, WR57X93, WR57X95, WR57X96
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 4.0 / 5.0, 42 reviews.
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ice maker not working properly and door seal worn
Two screws held the icemaker on. You do not even have to take them all the way out to remove the IM. Replacement of the water valve was just as easy except they (parts manufacturer) updated the flange nut with a compression fitting and it took me a minute looking at it before I realize what was going on. The door seal could not be easier, no tools just a few minutes of time
Other Parts Used:
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Michael from Bradenton, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Socket set
490 of 659 people
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Icemaker fill tube and funnel icing up; no icecubes
The old fill valve was leaking water at a very low rate, sort of like a dripping faucet. Water was then freezing up in the fill tube and funnel areas, eventually causing the fill tube to push out of the grommet and allowing it to leak into the freezer's rear coil compartment. This resulted in a large icicle forming on the left side of the coils and defrost thermostat.
In addition to low icecube production, I also began to see excessively warm defrost cycles, due to the defrost thermostat being iced over. (Telltale signs--1.Ice cubes melted/frozen into a massive block in the bottom of the ice bucket, 2.Soggy frozen food boxes and soft icecream, 3.Water accumulating under the crisper drawers in the refrigerator.)
I ended up replacing the fill valve, which is about a 10min job, and also had to remove the icemaker and interior rear cover from the freezer compartment to de-ice the coils. This was a NECESSARY step as the freezer is not able to defrost and clear this amount of ice on its own. I used a small hair dryer, being careful not to get it wet. If you tap on the ice to break it up, don't use anything sharp. Just let it thaw--
My circa-1992 Kenmore fridge (363.9711780) does not show up at Sears Parts Direct anymore, but it's a GE unit, and in my case the parts were all listed in the owner's manual using GE "WR" part numbers.
Good Luck!
In addition to low icecube production, I also began to see excessively warm defrost cycles, due to the defrost thermostat being iced over. (Telltale signs--1.Ice cubes melted/frozen into a massive block in the bottom of the ice bucket, 2.Soggy frozen food boxes and soft icecream, 3.Water accumulating under the crisper drawers in the refrigerator.)
I ended up replacing the fill valve, which is about a 10min job, and also had to remove the icemaker and interior rear cover from the freezer compartment to de-ice the coils. This was a NECESSARY step as the freezer is not able to defrost and clear this amount of ice on its own. I used a small hair dryer, being careful not to get it wet. If you tap on the ice to break it up, don't use anything sharp. Just let it thaw--
My circa-1992 Kenmore fridge (363.9711780) does not show up at Sears Parts Direct anymore, but it's a GE unit, and in my case the parts were all listed in the owner's manual using GE "WR" part numbers.
Good Luck!
Other Parts Used:
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Paul from Galien, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
34 of 37 people
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not making ice
when the ice maker runs through its cycle, you should be able to hear the solinoid valve open, letting water into the ice maker. this was not happening for me. you can dissconnect the plug on the valve and put the two probes from a multimeter in the plug and set for AC volts. when the ice maker runs its cycle, at the end you should see the meter jump as power is applied to the valve then turns off. this means you do have power to the valve so the valve is defective. turn off water supply to the valve, disconnect the water supply tube to the valve, remove the screw holding the valve, disconnect supply tube to icemaker then hook up supply tube to bottom of valve, screw braket back to refrig, install suppy back to valve, turn water back on and check for leaks and your ice maker should be working properly again.
these guys were really fast on delivery too!
these guys were really fast on delivery too!
Other Parts Used:
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thomas from richmond, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
33 of 38 people
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water appearing under refrigerator
Unplugged the refrigerator and turned off the water to the ice maker valve. Removed the water line at both ends (small crescent wrench). Removed the cover from the water valve area (two Phillips head screws). Removed the valve (two screws - small nut driver) and pulled off the two electrical connections.
Installed the new valve with the reverse procedure though the holding screws didn't line up with the existing holes in the refrigerator metal frame. I let it go with one screw holding ... didn't have a drill with me to make a second screw hole.
Replaced the old water line (from the wall to the valve) with a steel-reinforced hose.
Cut the female metal connector from the old water line up to the freezer and it fit nicely into the push-in outlet from the new valve. Turned everything back on and waited for the ice maker to cycle.
To my dismay, the leak had been coming from the plastic line that goes from the valve up to the ice maker. It had split, spraying water. Replaced that and everything works fine.
Lesson learned: Don't assume water near the icemaker valve actually is from the valve or its water connections. Watch the whole system cycle a couple of times to see what's really happening. Glad to have a new valve but the basic problem was the icemaker tubing.
Installed the new valve with the reverse procedure though the holding screws didn't line up with the existing holes in the refrigerator metal frame. I let it go with one screw holding ... didn't have a drill with me to make a second screw hole.
Replaced the old water line (from the wall to the valve) with a steel-reinforced hose.
Cut the female metal connector from the old water line up to the freezer and it fit nicely into the push-in outlet from the new valve. Turned everything back on and waited for the ice maker to cycle.
To my dismay, the leak had been coming from the plastic line that goes from the valve up to the ice maker. It had split, spraying water. Replaced that and everything works fine.
Lesson learned: Don't assume water near the icemaker valve actually is from the valve or its water connections. Watch the whole system cycle a couple of times to see what's really happening. Glad to have a new valve but the basic problem was the icemaker tubing.
Other Parts Used:
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Larry from Dallas, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
31 of 36 people
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water running down inside to lower compartment
Removed items from freezer, removed 2 nuts from ice maker and set ice maker aside. Pulled old fill tube from back (no tools). replaced with new fill tube. Removed old valve at back of ref. installed new valve kit and reconnected plastic line. placed clamps on plastic line to insure no leaks. No more leaking and ice maker works great. No ice cubes freezing together.
Other Parts Used:
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Wayne from Renton, WA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
21 of 24 people
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water valve didn't shut off completly
The valve is not a direct replacement,seems they
are not available,had to bend mtg. brkt. so valve
would mount in same position and cut off screw
type pressure fitting so could slide discharge
tube into new type connection, no instructions
come with replacement valve,asked several
places for info wanted to be sure before cutting
off end of discharge tube. Now valve shuts off
but water still in base of refrigerator must be a
leak in inlet tube behind freezer compartment.
are not available,had to bend mtg. brkt. so valve
would mount in same position and cut off screw
type pressure fitting so could slide discharge
tube into new type connection, no instructions
come with replacement valve,asked several
places for info wanted to be sure before cutting
off end of discharge tube. Now valve shuts off
but water still in base of refrigerator must be a
leak in inlet tube behind freezer compartment.
Other Parts Used:
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Raymond from Concord Twp., OH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
20 of 24 people
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Water leak caused by earlier tube replacement destroying retaining washer in valve
This was a simple parts replacement. I had replaced the cracked plastic tube a few weeks earlier and destroyed the retaining star washer inside the solenoid valve while removing the old one. It worked for a while and then started to leak when the tube had partially worked its way out. The star washer is not a replaceable part so this repair was simply replacing the valve with a new one. It is very straight forward - disconnect the electric plug, remove the old valve, insert the tube in the new valve (it goes through the plastic bushing in the valve - do not remove the bushing - it can easily be mistaken for a shipping plug) and reattach the supply line being careful to avoid kinking it. Reattach the valve, the electric plug and support clips for both the supply line and the plactic line to the ice maker.
Other Parts Used:
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George from Islamorada, MD
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
18 of 20 people
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Ice maker did not work
I removed one screw to loosen the cardboard panel that covered the old valve and one screw to remove the valve assembly. I disconnected the two wiring connections and unscrewed the two water line connections. Replacement was really easy since the bracket was the same as the old valve. The down stream water connection was different for the new (push in) than the old (threaded) but I cut the old threaded connector off and figured out that the new push in connection was solid (directions would have really helped here) Reconnected the inlet tubing and electrical wires and replace the panel and it was done.
Other Parts Used:
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Kenneth from Bellevue, WA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
15 of 18 people
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Leaking Valve on Ice Maker
I ordered the part and it got here very quickly. Being a novice home repair person, it took me awhile to get the courage to start. It was practically uneventful, but it did take some time to figure it out exactly. I did have to bend the piece some, which is always a little nerve wracking. However, the part is working beautifully and I feel good about myself.
Other Parts Used:
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Linda from Montgomery, AL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
10 of 12 people
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Water under refrigerator, leaky ice maker water supply solenoid valve
This is a relatively simple repair, but requires a bit of running around your house and sitting in a likely cramped space on the floor behind your refrigerator. These steps assume you have verified the valve is leaking and not the lines. 1. Locate where the water line to the fridge connects to the house plumbing. Close the next valve in the house plumbing upstream of this connection. Open some fixture (likely the cold on the kitchen sink) to relieve water pressure in this section of plumbing. Water should flow briefly, then dribble and stop on its own. 2. Unplug your fridge. There are moving parts (a fan) close to the valve that may injure you while you are working. 3. Pull your fridge away from the wall enough so you can scoot behind and sit behind. 4. Gather your tools and parts and squeeze behind the fridge. 5. Remove the felt paper dust cover. Carefully collect the screws. 6. Take a picture of the electrical connection to the valve or make a mental note. 7. Carefully unclip lines from the fridge and remove screws holding valve to fridge body. Slicing a line will create a new problem to fix. Carefully collect the screws. 8. Remove electrical connection. Grasp the connector and pull firmly. Do not yank the wires. 9. Over the bucket, disconnect old valve from lines. Some residual water will flow out. If the stream is steady, double check that Step 1 is completed correctly. Set old valve aside. 10. Examine new valve to determine water input and outlet. There may be an arrow indicating flow direction. 11. Seat the input line in the valve input firmly and connect. Mine was a nut I tightened with a small crescent wrench. 12. Seat the outlet line in the valve outlet firmly and connect. Mine was a push in quick connect. 14. Rest the valve over the bucket. Get up and turn the water back on. Verify your connections are not leaking. 15. Review your picture and reconnect the electrical connection. 16. Install the new valve onto the fridge body. Mine was a different geometry that required some gentle bending of the mounting bracket. Reclip lines to fridge. 17. While you're down there, vacuum underneath your fridge. 18. Reinstall felt paper dust cover. 19. Plug fridge back in. Clean up. 20. Monitor your ice maker, verify good operation. When satisfied, push fridge back. Recycle(?) old valve. 21. Success!
Other Parts Used:
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Eric from Chicago, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
8 of 8 people
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Questions and Answers
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Mick
February 27, 2018
I have water to the pump at right rear of fridge bt no water coming out
For model number gts18dcpjlww
Hello Mick, thank you for your question. If the water valve is getting water from the water source in your home, but no water is coming out of the valve, you will want to replace it. The part you will want to replace is Single Outlet Valve Kit WR57X10033. Please enter the part number into the site for current price and availability. Good luck with your repair!
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Ray
August 21, 2017
What water valve fit my model
For model number 36397317883
Hi Ray,
Thank you for your inquiry. The part number for the correct water valve for your appliance is PS304375 (manufacturer's part number WR57X10033) I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
4 people found this helpful.
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Joey
January 27, 2018
How do i locate and replace the single-outlet-valve? I have water coming to my refrigerator but not making it into the ice making machine.Thanks!
For model number GTS20ICNCWW
Hello Joey, Thank you for your inquiry. You access it from the back of the refrigerator. Although we do not have a repair video for this exact part number, I have included a link to a repair video for a similar part to assist you. Hope this helps!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNGe_VUDIBA&t=16s&index=78&list=PL3EB33F2356EAFCD4
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Roger
March 12, 2018
My ice maker is only making teenie-tiny ice cubes and just a few of them. I replaced my unit with a new ps1993870 and it did not fix my problem. Any clues? Do i need a new valve? Roger
For model number GTS18WCMBRWW
Hello Roger, thank you for your question. If the unit is not getting enough water to fill the tray you will want to replace the water valve part number Single Outlet Valve Kit WR57X10033. I hope this helps!
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Dan
November 16, 2018
When water is turned on to the ice maker only water comes out of the ice maker
For model number GTL18JCPBRBS
Hi Dan,
Thank you for your question. If the ice maker is only filling with water and no ice is being made, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which ones are causing the issue. You will need to check the ice maker, the water inlet valve and the ice maker switch. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Matthew
February 13, 2020
For months, my icemaker was producing near hollow ice cubes. It recently stopped. I discovered the filter attached to the water source was blocked. I replaced the filter and the water now makes it to the single outlet valve kit, but never out of the valve to the line to the icemaker. From what i read here, because of the condition of the ice when it worked, i may only need to replace the valve kit. Can you confirm this theory and that part number wr57x10033 may be the solution? Additionally, the fittings to/from the current supply lines are copper nuts. If i need a part to connect the 1/4 inch line to this outlet value, please suggest part numbers. Old refrigerator, but i'd like to keep it in service. Thanks
For model number 363.9719616
Hi Matthew, thank you for your question. It certainly sounds like you are on the right track. There are really two parts that you should check for this issue. The first part to test would be your water inlet valve. The valve can be tested with a multi meter and should be reading between 500 - 1500 ohms of resistance. If that part is testing correctly then you should look into your ice maker being the issue. Good luck with your repair.
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Dennis
May 1, 2018
What is the part number for w water inlet valve for this GE refrigerator
For model number GTS18FCS
Hello Dennis, thank you for your question. The water valve for your specific appliance is Single Outlet Valve Kit WR57X10033. Please enter the part number into the site for current price and availability. Good luck with your repair!
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Joe
September 9, 2019
My water line is copper with copper nut. Will the water valve for ice maker connect to this fitting or do i need to have a plastic water line?
For model number TBX21NICBRWW
Hi Joe, thank you for your question. This valve requires a plastic tube as it has a quick connect port and not a screw on. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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Gilbert
October 17, 2019
Hi, The ice maker doesn’t stop. The ice cube tray becomes a big block of ice and jams the endless screw, which I need to replace
Hello Gilbert, thank you for contacting us, In order for us to locate the correct parts and repair information we will require the model number of the appliance. Once you have located the model number please feel free to resubmit the question and we will be happy to help you. Look forward to hearing from you!
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Dan
February 26, 2018
I have a copper line going to the water valve part # wr57x10033. I have very high water pressure . Does this part have a connection for the copper line.
For model number GBSC0HBXFRCC
Hi Dan, Thank you for the question. The connector for the copper line that allows it to attach to the valve is part of the cooper line. We do not see them here unfortunately. I suggest contacting a plumber or the manufacture directly. Hope this helps!
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Related Parts
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS304375
Manufacturer Part Number: WR57X10033
Manufacturer Part Number: WR57X10033
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