Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
$87.43
Special Order
PartSelect Number
PS783534
Manufacturer Part Number
WB17T10006
Manufactured by
GE
Product Description
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit Specifications
This kit includes the female contact with wires, terminal block and mounting clip.
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Part Videos
Replacing your General Electric Range Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Element will not heat | Will Not Start
This part works with the following products:
Range.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Kenmore, Hotpoint.
Part# WB17T10006 replaces these:
AP3203326, 1038747, WB17T10006, WB17K10003, WB17T10001, WB17X10007
Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 4.0 / 5.0, 20 reviews.
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Burned out block
Watched a repairman do it the last time for $200.00. This time I unplugged the stove, unscrewed four screw nuts holding the upper rear cover, unplugged old wires, reconnected new ones, fed them thru to the front, attached them to the new block, screwed the block into place, replaced back cover, stuck the element into place, made my little brother plug it back in and turn it on first. It worked. Cost me $20.00 to do what the repairman did the last time. I also replaced the reflector pans. No-brainer.
Other Parts Used:
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Americus from Pittsburgh, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
302 of 527 people
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burner was shorting out
unplugged unit pulled it away from wall took off the backplates traced wire to plug replaced with part ordered very smooth operation. the most impressive thing to me was i ordered part on computer and it was at my door in 30 hours awesome.
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douglas from louisville, KY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
47 of 49 people
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The electric burner on the stove top would no longer heat up, when we removed it we noticed that the element was completely burned. I mean fryed!
First, I got my husband and let him know that the part was in (really easy), then I sat back and watched as he pulled the oven from the wall, unplugged it and lifted the stove top (so far, I haven't broken a sweat)! I then peeped up under the top as he removed a scew from the element and then several screws from the back panel, trace the wire to the needed element, and reconnect the new element (haven't broken a nail yet)! He then secured the element back on its mount, let down the top and plugged the oven back in, checked for accuracy...mission accomplished! This was the easiest repair I've ever done!
Other Parts Used:
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Monica from Point Blank, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
14 of 15 people
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stove top burner didn't heat
I replaced the element and socket. First, I unplugged and removed the burner element. Then, I pulled the range away from the wall and disconnected the power source. I then, removed the 4 screws that held the top back panel and removed the panel. Then, I raised the stove top, unscewed the socket, removed the tape, unplugged the wire terminals located on the terminal bock on the back of the stove and removed the socket/wire assembly. I then replaced with the new parts reversing the process. This only took about 30 mins total including cleaning the crap from behind the stove.
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Brian from Marathon, IA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
9 of 16 people
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The terminal burner block was burned out, and surface plate not heating.
My husband removed all the old terminal block and element, and put the new one in. It was very easy. Thank you for the instructions which were included.
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Carol A. from Orlando, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
7 of 9 people
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Front Large Most Powerful Burner's Block had broken so it didn't heat
This electric stove has a lift up top which I lifted to get at the block and follow the wire back to the terminal at the back of the the stove. I removed the 5 small lag screws holding the back in place, removed the backing followed the wires back to where they connected in the Stove On/Off Control, disconnected the two wires from the control and then laid the new part in place rethreading and reconnecting the wires. I reinstalled the block and ran a test to ensure the burner operated correctly. After successful testing I disconnect the old block holder by removing the small lag screw, replace it with a new one that came with the replacement terminal block. I then inserted the block into the new holder carefully rolled up the excess wire and wrapped it in a couple of places with electrical tape and also secured it to the side of the stove, out of the way of operation with electrical tape, put the top down, plugged it back in and put it back in place. All told the repair took about 40 minutes. I was impressed with the speed of delivery, the quality of the product, the instructions for installation and the added bonus of getting a terminal block holder as part of the repair kit! Thank You for making me look like a genius!
Other Parts Used:
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Martin from plainfield, CT
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers
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terminal was broken due to maney uses
unscrew the terminal block,pulled the old wires out,installed the new wires installed the new block
Other Parts Used:
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Emmett J from Winchester, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
4 of 5 people
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Two sockets for electric elements and their end terminals were badly burned.
0) Take the back cover of the range off.
1) Carefully noted how the wires and the sockets were connected.
2) Visually checked that the new parts were practically identical old ones.
3) Put together the new sockets from the parts in the kit.
4) disconnect the old sockets and put the new sockets in place.
5) For each unit disconnect one old wire at the time and connect the new wire. Repeat the same for second wire.
6) Neatly bunch together the rest of the wires with electrical tape. Do not cut the wires!
That's it! It took about 20-30 minutes.
1) Carefully noted how the wires and the sockets were connected.
2) Visually checked that the new parts were practically identical old ones.
3) Put together the new sockets from the parts in the kit.
4) disconnect the old sockets and put the new sockets in place.
5) For each unit disconnect one old wire at the time and connect the new wire. Repeat the same for second wire.
6) Neatly bunch together the rest of the wires with electrical tape. Do not cut the wires!
That's it! It took about 20-30 minutes.
Other Parts Used:
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Marco from Santa Barbara, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 6 people
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Terminal block connectors worn out wasn’t making a good connection with the stove top burner
Cut 4 inch’s off the new terminal block wires then using my wire strippers stripped 1/2 inch off the ends , the old terminal block wires I stripped 1/2 inch at the ends using a wire nuts on both wires and electrical tape connected the terminal block to the stove plugged the new burner in and the burner worked 100%.
Other Parts Used:
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Lance from HAHIRA, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
2 of 2 people
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The ceramic contact housing for the burner had melted, and the back large burner started to burn.
I verified the parts that were sent to me to make sure they were what I needed. I read the instructions for the replacement of the new parts. I then moved the stove out away from the wall to access the back plate where the burner connections are located. I removed the cover plate to expose the connections. I then traced out the wires from the burner that needed to be replaced to the connections on the back panel. I disconnected the appropriate wires and tied them off on both ends because it was difficult to try and weave the old wires out and the new wires through the original channel they were running through. I removed the damaged ceramic housing and installed the new ceramic housing along with the new large burner ring. I then routed the new wires through the stove to the back connection panel and plugged them into the same positions as the old wires occupied. I then wrapped up the excess cable and tied it off and stored it inside the rear panel per the instructions. I tie wrapped the new cable along the route of the existing channel of wires from the front to the rear and then replced the back panel and secured it with the screws. I pushed the stove back to it's original position. I then tuned on the rear burner to see if was working properly, and it heated up fine.
Other Parts Used:
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Roy from Chelsea, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 4 people
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Questions and Answers
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Marty
December 6, 2017
How many burners will this kit fix? I want to replace all 4, from the switch all the way to replacing the connector block for the burner. Thank you!
For model number ABS300J1WW
Hi Marty,
Thank you for your question. These kits only contain enough parts to replace one element terminal block. You would need to buy 4 kits. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
19 people found this helpful.
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Patricia
October 5, 2017
The front large burner on the stove is over heating - turns bright red even on low setting. What part needs replacing?
For model number JBP25D0K4WH
Hi Patricia,
Thank you for your question. It could either be the switch that controls your front burner or the burner itself that is the issue. You would have to test both parts to see which one is broken. Good luck with your repair.
5 people found this helpful.
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Mickey
October 14, 2017
I need the right front wire big burner in front it is a long one this comes 2 connect from end 2end
For model number jbp23d-r2ww
Hello Mickey, thank you for contacting us. This kit would have all the wires or the surface burners included. Hope this helps!
4 people found this helpful.
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ANNE
August 16, 2017
Do i need to buy 4 of these if i am replacing all 4 brown plastic thingies
For model number JDP39BOW5BB
Hello Anne,
Thank you for contacting us.
These kits only contain enough parts to replace one element terminal block. You would need to buy 4 kits.
I hope this helps!
4 people found this helpful.
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Alfred
August 28, 2017
My ceramic Receptacle is completely burnt and fall apart into many pieces, will I need to buy item 83 together with item 82 , or can I use the original clip with item 83? The original clip looks ok.
For model number jbp23sr5ss
Hi Alfred,
Thank you for the question. As long as the clip is okay then it can be refused.
Good luck with the repair.
4 people found this helpful.
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Robert
April 22, 2018
My surface burner light will not go off but stove is off stove works fine and turns off.Can you let me know the problem and part numbers i need to replace
For model number Jbp21bb1wh
Hi Robert,
Thank you for your question. If the surface burner light will not go off, then this is issue is with one of the burner switches and you will need to check each one with a multimeter to see which one is causing the issue. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
4 people found this helpful.
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Harold
March 11, 2019
Will this part fix burner from going to high no matter the setting on the control knob?
For model number JBS07H2WW
Hi Harold, thank you for your question. Be sure to cut power to your appliance and remove any parts before doing tests. There are a couple of parts that could cause this issue specifically. You will need a multi meter to be able to test the parts. The first part you will want to check is your element. It should be reading between 0 - 50 ohms to be working correctly. The other part to check would be your infinite (or surface burner) switch. When you remove that part from the appliance, connect each probe from your multi meter to the prongs and then turn the switch to an on position. If you get no continuity then the switch is the issue. It could also be your wiring that is the issue but you should see visual damage on that part in most cases. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
4 people found this helpful.
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Deborah
September 24, 2019
My large front burner when turned on low with in 2-3 mins is glowing red hot . I’ve tried switching the burner but same thing so i know it’s not the same element itself,on your website it looks like there are only 2 possible things.What do you recommend.Thank you deb Hayward
For model number JBP23SR5SS
Hello Deborah, Thank you for the question. This normally indicates the switch that controls the element PartSelect Number PS236750 is defective and will need to be replaced. Hope this helps!
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Rosario
January 23, 2020
Does this work with small burners too?
For model number JBP35DM1WW
Hello Rosario, Thank you for the question. Yes, this Terminal Block Kit works on both size burner elements. We hope this helps.
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Nina
August 14, 2021
My GE range is just over 1 year old. Last night the front right burner heated red hot when on medium. I use that burner all the time and it has never over heated. When i turned the burner off, it did turn off. When i pulled the burner out of the terminal, i saw some red residue on the plug of my burner in the terminal too. I'm reading about people replacing either the switch or the terminal. Would this be a terminal replacement?
For model number JBS360DM2BB
Hello Nina, Thank you for writing. Yes you are correct to choose Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit PartSelect Number PS783534. Good luck with your repair.
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Related Parts
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS783534
Manufacturer Part Number: WB17T10006
Manufacturer Part Number: WB17T10006
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