Product Description
Dual Inlet Water Valve Specifications
This valve comes with 1/4" compression inlet.
NOTE: This part comes with new quick connections. To install - cut retaining nuts off of existing plastic water lines and gently push them into new valve. To remove - depress ring that the tube slides into.
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Part Videos
Replacing your General Electric Refrigerator Dual Inlet Water Valve
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Leaking | Ice maker not making ice | Not dispensing water | Ice maker won’t dispense ice
This part works with the following products:
Refrigerator.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Kenmore, Hotpoint, RCA.
Part# WR57X10051 replaces these:
AP3672839, 1032629, WR57X10051, 66048, WR02X10105, WR2X10105, WR57X0092, WR57X0098, WR57X0099, WR57X0104, WR57X0111, WR57X0119, WR57X10018, WR57X10018E, WR57X104, WR57X111, WR57X119, WR57X92, WR57X98, WR57X99
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Hubert T - October 29, 2020
Verified Purchase
Very easy repair, instructions very clear
The part came very fast with the instructions, and it worked perfectly, my fridge water dispenser is back up and running
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.8 / 5.0, 85 reviews.
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Cracked housing on the vaave
1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines are still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines are still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
Other Parts Used:
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anthony from thornton, CO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
286 of 306 people
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The icemaker was leaking water into the freezer, causing the freezer to be covered inside with ice.
The actual repair was a snap. However, be sure you check to make sure all of the parts are there. The two electrical adapter/connectors were missing from the water valve package, so I could not complete the job until a new valve could be shipped. The two adapters are essential to proper operation of the water valve. New ones arrived in 3 days.
DISASSEMBLY:
1. Unplug the refrigerator.
2. Shut off the water supply to the icemaker.
3. Remove the screws holding the cardboard cover onto the lower back side of the refrigerator, using a nut driver.
4. Disconnect the water supply line from the top of the water valve.
5. Remove the screw holding the water valve bracket onto the back of the refrigerator.
6. Unscrew the two water feed tubes from the water valve (one goes to the icemaker and one to the cold water dispenser).
7. Pull the two electrical connectors straight out of the back of the water valve. They are color-coded, but it won't hurt to label them with a small piece of masking tape.
NOTE:
Since I wanted this to be fixed and to not have to deal with it for years to come, I also replaced the plastic tubing running up the back of the refrigerator, the grommet that goes through the back of the refrigerator into the freezer compartment, and the water tube the pours water into the icemaker's tray - and it was well worth the few extra dollars and 10 extra minutes of work. To do this part:
1. Inside the freezer section, loosen the two screws holding the icemaker to the back of the freezer (you do not need to remove the screws, but it won't hurt anything if you do remove them).
2. Slide the icemaker upward until it clears the two screws enough that you can set the icemaker out of the way.
3. Grasp the 1/2-inch plastic tube that points toward the front of the freezer and pull it toward you until it comes out.
4. At the back of the refrigerator, pull out the plastic grommet that held the tube you just removed, near the top of the refrigerator.
5. Remove the thin water tube that runs from the water valve up the back of the refrigerator to the grommet.
ASSEMBLY:
1. Basically, reverse the order of disassembly.
CONCLUSION:
It took longer to type the instructions than it would have taken to do the job. If only the elctrical connectors had been there the first time.
DISASSEMBLY:
1. Unplug the refrigerator.
2. Shut off the water supply to the icemaker.
3. Remove the screws holding the cardboard cover onto the lower back side of the refrigerator, using a nut driver.
4. Disconnect the water supply line from the top of the water valve.
5. Remove the screw holding the water valve bracket onto the back of the refrigerator.
6. Unscrew the two water feed tubes from the water valve (one goes to the icemaker and one to the cold water dispenser).
7. Pull the two electrical connectors straight out of the back of the water valve. They are color-coded, but it won't hurt to label them with a small piece of masking tape.
NOTE:
Since I wanted this to be fixed and to not have to deal with it for years to come, I also replaced the plastic tubing running up the back of the refrigerator, the grommet that goes through the back of the refrigerator into the freezer compartment, and the water tube the pours water into the icemaker's tray - and it was well worth the few extra dollars and 10 extra minutes of work. To do this part:
1. Inside the freezer section, loosen the two screws holding the icemaker to the back of the freezer (you do not need to remove the screws, but it won't hurt anything if you do remove them).
2. Slide the icemaker upward until it clears the two screws enough that you can set the icemaker out of the way.
3. Grasp the 1/2-inch plastic tube that points toward the front of the freezer and pull it toward you until it comes out.
4. At the back of the refrigerator, pull out the plastic grommet that held the tube you just removed, near the top of the refrigerator.
5. Remove the thin water tube that runs from the water valve up the back of the refrigerator to the grommet.
ASSEMBLY:
1. Basically, reverse the order of disassembly.
CONCLUSION:
It took longer to type the instructions than it would have taken to do the job. If only the elctrical connectors had been there the first time.
Other Parts Used:
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Stephen from Raleigh, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
94 of 109 people
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Leaking water
Plastic lines to ice maker and water dispenser cracked from heat. Replaced Icemaker line by removeing 2 screws holding Icemaker then two more holding icemaker mount, Pulled large plastic tube that water runs down. From back of unit removed grommet that goes thru refrigerator back, then bent open clamp and pulled out 1/4 " line. Reversed process to install.
After doing this I believe it could all be done from the back with out removing the icemaker. Just pry open the clamp on the grommet and pull the 1/4" icemaker line out of the grommet.
The water supply tube was a a little challenge. The 5/16 tube comes thru at the bottom of the fridge under the meat bin. Remove the meat bin and the next bin up to gain access. I cut the tube off with a side cutters about 1/2 of the way between the floor of the fridge and the water tank. Then I took the new line and attached the old line to the new line with a bolt of the correct od with the head cut off so I could tie the two lines together. Then I pulled the old line out from the back of the fridge while pushing the new line in. Attached the line from the tank to the new line with the Water tube union then cut the line off in the back and installed a new Dual inlet valve and the icemaker, drinking water line and supply line to it. Let it sit over night making ice and made sure no leaks before pushing back.
After doing this I believe it could all be done from the back with out removing the icemaker. Just pry open the clamp on the grommet and pull the 1/4" icemaker line out of the grommet.
The water supply tube was a a little challenge. The 5/16 tube comes thru at the bottom of the fridge under the meat bin. Remove the meat bin and the next bin up to gain access. I cut the tube off with a side cutters about 1/2 of the way between the floor of the fridge and the water tank. Then I took the new line and attached the old line to the new line with a bolt of the correct od with the head cut off so I could tie the two lines together. Then I pulled the old line out from the back of the fridge while pushing the new line in. Attached the line from the tank to the new line with the Water tube union then cut the line off in the back and installed a new Dual inlet valve and the icemaker, drinking water line and supply line to it. Let it sit over night making ice and made sure no leaks before pushing back.
Other Parts Used:
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James from Richfield, WI
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
58 of 70 people
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Icemaker stopped working.
Replaced water valve. Removed cardboard rear cover, disconnected one copper waterline in, two plastic waterlines out, two electrical connectors and one mounting screw. Reverse to install replacement valve except plastic water lines connect to new valve by inserting into the valve instead of threading onto the fitting. Slide the plastic fittings further onto the water line and insert the ends into the valve. FYI .......water in the door functions independent of icemaker, I had water but no ice.
Working well now, actuator pad and dispenser grill were replaced due to wear [cosmetic] and had nothing to due with the icemaker malfunctioning.
Working well now, actuator pad and dispenser grill were replaced due to wear [cosmetic] and had nothing to due with the icemaker malfunctioning.
Other Parts Used:
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Mark from Mars, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
41 of 49 people
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Water was leaking from back of fridge. Not able to use icemaker
This problem had already occurred in 2008. Repairman replaced dual water valve. Cost $190.00. We decided to do it ourselves this time. The repairs were actually made in three phases. First, when I pulled the fridge out from the wall, unplugged it, and turned the water valve back on I discovered that the plastic tubing from water supply into the fridge had long cracks in it and water was spraying out everywhere. I turned water off, went to Lowe's and bought the kit for that repair. Of course I didn't have to use all of the parts in the kit because the water supply was already there from the valve that came up through the floor. After turning the water back on and plugging the fridge back in, my husband and I tested it by trying the water dispenser. We found that water was leaking from somewhere inside the fridge, but didn't know where. After UNPLUGGING it, and turning the water off again, I took the metal back off at the bottom. It was leaking from the bigger plastic tubing (5/16"). It was just hanging, not connected into the dual water valve. Figured it had just broken. So I thought I just needed 5/16" tubing. I went on the GE website and it was very hard to get answers to my problem because I couldn't find the plastic tubing that it looked like. I ended up ordering the plastic tubing that goes up that back of the fridge to the icemaker. They sent me two of those, not one for the freezer and the bigger clear one (5/16") that I thought I needed. Then, I found this website! This PartSelect website is great!! After reading about other consumer repairs, I knew how to disconnect the dual water valve and found out that the smaller plastic tubing that goes up the back of the fridge to the icemaker had been pinched where it connects to the dual water value, barley hanging on. Just quick disconnected it from the valve by pushing up on the outside where the tubing comes out while pulling on the tubing. It came out, and I had to use needle nose pliers to pull some of it out where it had broken off inside. Then, pushed the new tubing into the valve and ran it up the back of the fridge, unscrewed the plate that goes over the clamp that holds the tubing, loosened the clamp a little, pulled the old tubing out, pushed the new tubing in, (the clamp was still tight enough) put the metal plate back on and replaced the screws. Then I re-connected the dual water valve to the electric clips, connected the 5/16" tubing to the right side of the valve. (The black tubing that goes up the back of the fridge goes into the left side of the valve.) put it back into place and screwed it back against the body of the fridge where it goes, put the back on and plugged it back in. We tested it again, and water was leaking, but not from where I made my first repair. I reversed everything again, and discovered that where the 5/16" tubing goes into the dual water value, it seemed more loose than it should have been. That is where the water was leaking from! I ordered the dual water valve, the 5/16" plastic tubing and the water tube union. I replaced the dual water valve-very easy! MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG THE FRIDGE, turn the water supply off, disconnect the small tubing from the dual water valve, disconnect the electric connections to the valve, and reverse the process. What I did was replace the 5/16" tubing the comes out of valve & goes up into the storage tank behind crisper drawer. Used union there. Put everything back together and it works!!
Other Parts Used:
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Laura from Zanesville, OH
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
30 of 37 people
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low flowing water (not just a drip) from refrigerator ice maker
The icemaker's valve is easy to inspect and test. First, gently pull the refrigerator away from the wall, and unplug it. Turn off the water supply to the icemaker by closing the shut-off valve in the copper waterline leading to the valve. Use a screwdriver or nutdriver to remove the rear lower access panel from the refrigerator's back.
Next, remove the fill tubing from the water valve. Use a wrench to loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting on the inlet side of the valve (above). Place a container or towel under the valve to catch the small amount of water that will spill from the valve and tubing.
Now use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw holding the valve's mounting bracket to the refrigerator cabinet. Pull the valve out of the compartment and remove the tube (or tubes if both water dispenser & ice maker) on the valve's outlet. If plastic tubes don't come out with pliers and assuming there is enough extra tubing, then cut the plastic tubing with a even straight cut edge razor. Then, remove the solenoid's electrical contacts.
Push the plastic water and ice tubes int he appropriate holes in the new valve outlet, reconnect solenoids and remount new water valve.
Before installing the back panel on the refrigerator cabinet, test run the icemaker. Look for leaks, and tighten any leaky connections. If necessary, use Teflon tape or a similar product to ensure tight connections. Discard the first ice cubes that are produced because they are likely to have sediment in them.
Next, remove the fill tubing from the water valve. Use a wrench to loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting on the inlet side of the valve (above). Place a container or towel under the valve to catch the small amount of water that will spill from the valve and tubing.
Now use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw holding the valve's mounting bracket to the refrigerator cabinet. Pull the valve out of the compartment and remove the tube (or tubes if both water dispenser & ice maker) on the valve's outlet. If plastic tubes don't come out with pliers and assuming there is enough extra tubing, then cut the plastic tubing with a even straight cut edge razor. Then, remove the solenoid's electrical contacts.
Push the plastic water and ice tubes int he appropriate holes in the new valve outlet, reconnect solenoids and remount new water valve.
Before installing the back panel on the refrigerator cabinet, test run the icemaker. Look for leaks, and tighten any leaky connections. If necessary, use Teflon tape or a similar product to ensure tight connections. Discard the first ice cubes that are produced because they are likely to have sediment in them.
Other Parts Used:
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Theresa from Rochester, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Water leaking into Freezer from Ice Maker
Disregard previous.
1. Turn off water supply.
2. Unplug power cord.
3. Remove bottom Panel to access the Solenoid valve.
4. Remove the water lines from the Valve.
5. Remove the Valve from the refrigerator.
6. Remove the electrical connectors from the valve.
(make sure the new valve has the connector adaptors included) you will need them during installation.
7.Bend the new valve bracket inward about 45 degrees to clear the compressor coolant line.
8.Use a pair of pliers to braek away the plastic on the new valve for clearance.
9.If needed remove the compression fitings from the old water line installation as the new valve comes with the push and lock feature.
10.Install the bottom 2 water lines they are different sizes
11.Mount the new valve to refrigerator and tighten.
12.Install the ice maker water line to the top fitting on the valve.
13.Plug the power cord in & turn on the water supply,check for leaks and proper operation on the valve.
1. Turn off water supply.
2. Unplug power cord.
3. Remove bottom Panel to access the Solenoid valve.
4. Remove the water lines from the Valve.
5. Remove the Valve from the refrigerator.
6. Remove the electrical connectors from the valve.
(make sure the new valve has the connector adaptors included) you will need them during installation.
7.Bend the new valve bracket inward about 45 degrees to clear the compressor coolant line.
8.Use a pair of pliers to braek away the plastic on the new valve for clearance.
9.If needed remove the compression fitings from the old water line installation as the new valve comes with the push and lock feature.
10.Install the bottom 2 water lines they are different sizes
11.Mount the new valve to refrigerator and tighten.
12.Install the ice maker water line to the top fitting on the valve.
13.Plug the power cord in & turn on the water supply,check for leaks and proper operation on the valve.
Other Parts Used:
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Louis from Kingwood, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
20 of 39 people
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Replace Dual Inlet Water Valve
Unplug the electrical power to the refridgerator, remove old valve, marking which electrical wire set goes to which solenoid valve. Cut the nut fasteners from the ice maker and front door water tubes. Leave the nut fastener on the supply line.
New valve - remove plastic shipping protection guard, remove rubber cap from supply connection, bend mounting bracket to a 90 degree bend, attach electrical wire reducers to the small wattage solenoid wires then to the solenoid, attach large wattage solenoid wires to the large solenoid, push ice maker tube into the small quick-connection(no nut fastener needed), push the front door water into the large quick-connection, finally mount valve asembly using same holes in frame as held the old valve assembly. Plug in the power. Solenoid valves may take an hour or so to operate.
New valve - remove plastic shipping protection guard, remove rubber cap from supply connection, bend mounting bracket to a 90 degree bend, attach electrical wire reducers to the small wattage solenoid wires then to the solenoid, attach large wattage solenoid wires to the large solenoid, push ice maker tube into the small quick-connection(no nut fastener needed), push the front door water into the large quick-connection, finally mount valve asembly using same holes in frame as held the old valve assembly. Plug in the power. Solenoid valves may take an hour or so to operate.
Other Parts Used:
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Timothy from West Windsor, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
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Water Leak From The Ice Make - Water All Over The Frig
Replace the old water valve (wr57x11) with the new one (wr57x10051: make sure you unplug the 110 ac power . And close the water come to the refrig. First 1. Open the paper panel on the back with screw driver. 2 Use a small adj. Wrench to take the old valve of. 3. Label the connector and its terminals in a proper number to identify their connector. 4. Unscrew 2 water hoses - one to the drinking one to the ice maker. They are in diff. Sizes - make sure to mark where the hoses connected in case you need to use it again. 5. Cut of the thread section on the hose end - you do not need thread any more on the new water valve. 6. Make sure the new valve is in the same position as the old one. Then plug the water hoses to the valve - and connector terminals. There are 2 new terminal adapter in your new package. These new adapter will be fit to the old hardness for connecting to the new valve. 7. Secure the valve onto the refig frame then plug in the water hose to make sure no leak at the valve. The new valve has new type of self-lock plug ( not thread ) to the 2 water hoses. Make sure to press hard so the hoses are fit in to these new water . Valves. Turn on the water and power on on the refrig. That's all. Very simple save $300 for hiring the service man. Good luck to all.
Other Parts Used:
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David T from Irvine, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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This part on refrigerator went out, wouldn't dispense water.
I removed the back cover on the refrigerator. Unbolted the unit. First of all I unpluged the refrigerator. Took off the two electrical connections and removed the input and output water lines. I then reversed this process when I installed the new part. It was real easy.
Other Parts Used:
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Glen from Harrisburg, OR
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers
13 of 18 people
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Giovanna
August 13, 2017
I have a GE monogram built in refrigerator that is dripping water out of the water dispenser in the door.. I want to change the water valve. Since the refrigerator is built in, i do not think i can expose the back of it. could the valve be behind the top front panel of the built in model? when ever service men come they take off that panel to work. could the valve be there too?
For model number ZISW42DSC
Hi Giovanna,
Thank you for your inquiry. Your valve is located on the lower right hand side of your model (when standing in front of the appliance). You may be able to get to the part through the bottom kickplate of your refrigerator. If you take that bottom grille off, there should be a cover that shields the water inlet valve. If you are able to remove that then you will expose the valve. However if you cannot, you will have to pull the appliance out from its built-in position. Good luck with your repair.
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JIM
January 26, 2020
If water is coming out door is the valve working also for the ice maker my unit is not making ice so is the ice maker?
For model number csx25grbbaa
Hello and thank you for writing.
It certainly sounds like it could be a faulty water inlet valve PS901314 causing the ice maker not to work( water and ice dispenser valves are separate entities), you should check the part(s) for signs of damage, and replace as necessary. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
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Russell Mills
July 21, 2017
I ordered the ice maker water valve for my frig. The new valve has 2 different size water lines. Mine are the same size. Will the compression fittings work using small water lines for both? Part # wr57x10051 was shipped to me.
For model number TFX22RJE
Hi Russell, thank you for the question. I have cross referenced you refrigerator model with the part you were shipped, and they are compatible with one another. For more information on installation of the new water valve, you may want to watch the installation video provided on this page. I hope this helps you with your repair.
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Gerard
July 15, 2019
I think i have a problem. When you try to fill a glass with water, the water does not start right away, but will disburse water after depressing the glass against the lever a couple of times. Also, the ice maker started to not make ice cubes. I believe i have a malfunctioning dual solenoid valve that is causing the water reservoir to not be working properly??? am i right? thanks for your anticipated response!
For model number TFX24RJC
Hello Gerard, thank you for inquiring. Yes, you are correct. You will need to replace the Dual Inlet Water Valve part PS901314 for your model. You may also want to consider the Water Tube Union part PS299116. We hope this helps.
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Giovanna
August 22, 2017
I purchased a dual inlet valve from you for an intermittent drip in my door water dispenser. The wattage on your product says:35 and 20. The one i am replacing says:100 and 15. Will it work? Will it not be enough wattage, and burn out quickly. Should i send this part back? When i called GE, they said there is no longer replacement parts for my refrigerator.
For model number ZISW42DSC
Hi Giovanna,
Thank you for your inquiry. The water inlet valve, part number WR57X10051, is coming up under the model number you provided ZISW42DSC. If this is the correct model number from your appliance, than you have ordered the correct part and it will work on your applaince. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Frank
February 7, 2020
I am looking for GE wr57x10012 water valve for refrigerator
Hello Frank,
Thank you for your question. The water valve under part WR57X10012 has been replaced with the new part under part WR57X10051 for your model as the replacement part. We hope this helps.
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Alice Brooks
November 1, 2017
Water goes thru supply in the door but not to ice tray?
For model number csx25grbeaa Hotpiont
Hi Alice,
Thank you for your inquiry. You will need to check the water line from the water inlet valve to the ice maker to see if there are any blockages. You will also need to check to see if there is enough water pressure to allow the water to go to the ice maker. You will also need to check to see if the water inlet valve and the ice maker to see if they are working properly. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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LJ
December 25, 2017
I have an older model side by side GE refrigerator freezer. The ice actuator is sticking and very hard to engage the ice dispenser actuator. Maybe it's freezing up. Recently had a problem with the water not dispensing at all, but used a hairdryer and got it working again it was frozen up. There's a recess cover on the back side of the freezer door, not on the front side. How do i get it off? The front panel doesn't appear to be the way into the area, like newer models, for me to examine the ice chute flapper or spring mechanism or ice dispensing actuator/mechanism (unsure what it's called).
For model number TFX24RMA
Hi LJ,
Thank you for your question. For most of these housings (even the older ones) you would use a putty knife to pry off the frame around the housing. Try to be gentle so you do not accidentally break anything. Once you have enough room, you can use your hands to pry off the rest of the outside frame. Once you have that part off the inner parts will be exposed for you to work on. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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L.J.
December 28, 2017
During my last q&a session, i asked how to open the recess cover on the inside of the freezer door. Your advice was to remove the frame around the ice/water dispenser on the exterior side. I removed it and the screws behind it, but still cannot remove the concaved black plastic housing, where the ice and water are dispensed. My ice & water actuators are not hinged, like some of the newer models, instead are triggered via a rod-type mechanism that goes thru the back wall of the housing to dispense ice and water. Everything i've tried doesn't budge the housing. I don't know if the plunge-type, rod-type actuators are attached to something behind the wall stopping the removal of the housing. That's why i requested a "how-to" instruction how to remove the inside plastic black recess panel. How is it held in place. There are no screws visible. What's behind this panel? Appreciate whatever you can provide. Is there a cellphone number for me to send some photos of my unit? Thanks!
For model number TFX24RMA
Hi LJ,
Thank you for your question. There is a video on our website that you can reference on how to install the. The refrigerator in the video may not show exactly like the one you have and the part being installed is different, but it will give you a general idea on how to install the part. You will find the video under part number PS1483583. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Brad
January 26, 2018
I ordered the dual water valve kit and replaced per instructions. We still have water leaking from the freezer door water dispenser after actuator pad is released. Curious if there is something else that may cause water to continue to drip from the dispenser tube.
For model number GE Profile TFX 27PFSMWW
Hello Brad, Thank you for your inquiry. I would check the water tube union, the fill tube grommet and the plastic tubes. Hope this helps!
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