Product Description
Direct Drive Water Pump Specifications
This pump is intended for use with washing machines that do not have belts. This drain pump has two ports for water to pass through: a large one, and a smaller one.
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Part Videos
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Direct Drive Water Pump
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Leaking | Will not drain | Leaks water | Will Not Start
This part works with the following products:
Washer, Washer Dryer Combo.
This part works with the following products:
Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper, Estate.
Part# WP3363394 replaces these:
AP6008107, 21024, 3348014, 3348015, 3348215, 3352492, 3363394, 62516, 63347, 64076, 8235, WP3363394VP
Customer Reviews
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Ada L - April 11, 2024
Verified Purchase
The part was exactly what we needed. Washer works great again! Thank you!
Glad my son found the part, it works great now.
Stuart S - March 29, 2023
Verified Purchase
Repair was simple
The part was as required
Mike D - May 18, 2022
Verified Purchase
Perfect fit
Perfect fit, fast shipping, super easy website to find your parts
Alexander L - April 27, 2022
Verified Purchase
Worked perfect.
Fit great and repaired my washing machine back to original.
Monica S - September 29, 2021
Verified Purchase
Accurate, quick delivery
I received the correct pet for my 25 year old washer, and it arrived in a couple of days, where Amazon was going to take 2 weeks
Emilian S - July 30, 2021
Verified Purchase
Worked
The part was what I expected, and arrived quickly.
Keith R - June 30, 2021
Verified Purchase
Quick repair
Received part very quickly and easy install.
Brian F - June 24, 2021
Verified Purchase
Easy repair, great part, so far 100%
Part was easy to identify on the website, order process was straight forward, and so far it is working great!
Marcel B - June 2, 2021
Verified Purchase
worked as expected.
All good. a little hard getting hose back on, but got it. Appliance works great again.
Jason B - June 2, 2021
Verified Purchase
Easy repair
New part - perfect
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.8 / 5.0, 219 reviews.
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Replace Water Pump Coupling
Removed casing tip over washer disconnected water pump. Disconnected motor then replace coupling then reassemble motor then replaced water pump.
Other Parts Used:
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RICHARD from PHILA, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
840 of 908 people
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Water pump leaking when machine used.
The hardest part of this job was pulling the machine away from the wall so the hoses could be disconnected and the machine flipped onto it's back. Putting the machine on it's back does two things. It drains the water left in the bottom of the tub so it won't pour out onto the motor when the old pump is removed, and gives the necessary access to the pump. Once the machine is on it's back you remove the hose clamps with a pair of pliers and disconnect the hoses. The pump is secured to the motor with a pair of spring steel retaining clips which are easily popped off by hand. Once the clips are removed, the pump is in your hand. Put the new pump in place, replace the retaining clips and hoses, and you're done. This has to have been the easiest repair I've ever done. I wish cleaning gutters was this easy.
Other Parts Used:
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Tom from Granby, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers
589 of 627 people
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Washer made a loud banging noise at end of spin cycle, leaked water and agitator seemed loose
After entering the model number of your appliance you will be taken to a page where all of the parts are displayed by sections. On that page about in the middle there is a heading called "Find Part By Symptom." I figured out from there which symptom the washer had and read what other people were saying and how they made the repairs. Basically I had three problem areas, Noise, Leaking and a problem with the agitator. I focused on the loud noise first and decided I needed to replace the clutch/brake assemblies. I found the clutch parts page and on that page there was a video on how to make this repair. This video is all you need to gain access to all moving parts located under the cabinet. Which ever part you are replacing, I recommend watching this video! After removing the console, back panel and cabinet then laying the machine on its back just as seen on the video, I had access to the water pump, motor, transmission and related clutch/brake parts. As it turned out I did not need the clutch/brake assembly but as a precaution and because the parts were cheap, I replaced the motor coupling, water pump and tub wear pads. I decided to replace the agitator assembly because of several worn parts associated with the dog ears/drive shaft ETC. I put the machine back upright and took off the top cap on the agitator, then there is an inner cap with seal that gives access to the 7/16" bolt you must remove to remove the agitator. However once the agitator was removed I noticed metal shavings and play in the shaft. I used a spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I removed the Plastic Tub Ring (has several clips around the outer tub), then removed the inner washer tub to replace the Drive Block. Replacing the Drive Block stopped the loud noise at the end of the spin cycle. Now just reverse the order to put the machine back together and your done. For my situation it was best to take the machine apart and decide which parts I needed before ordering to minimize errors. These machines are made very cheaply and are designed to brake at some point in time and it is very easy to determine which parts are worn because most are made of plastic. In this process I also noticed where my leaks (did I say Leaks) were coming from. There were two hose clamps installed improperly from the factory, so check all clamps, hoses ETC. and you should be good to go.
Other Parts Used:
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Dexter from Milwaukie, OR
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
486 of 571 people
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Water leaking on floor
I removed the two spring clips that hold the pump and two wire spring clips that hold the hoses. Then I had to pry the pump off the shaft (it was frozen with rust). Then I cleaned the shaft with sandpaper and installed the new pump (which, by the way, came the next day, thank you very much) which made my wife very happy, and I thank you for that , too.
Other Parts Used:
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Stanley from Warwick, RI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
103 of 113 people
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Washer had water leak in lower front and would not drain.
Laid the washer on its back and found leak in water pump. Found out it was caused by vibration from motor with bad bearing. Removed pump and motor which were held on by clips. Both were removed and replaced without removing cabinet from machine.
Other Parts Used:
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Lowell from Dover, DE
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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bad water pump
We received the part we needed in a timely manner. First we took the back off the washer and found out later we didn't have to, because you can access the pump from the bottom of the Whirlpool washer and when we turned it on it's back a brass colored pin about 2" long fell out and we have no idea where it goes.Looking around the bottom frame we saw another pin in a plastic little cup mounted to the frame and another empty cup .So we changed the pump easy,put the pin in the empty cup and the washer runs great! That's our story.Still don't know what the pin is for,it's not on the parts schematic.
Other Parts Used:
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carrie from magna, UT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
50 of 57 people
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worn water pump and worn aggitator cogs
leaned and propped washing machine back to get access to pump, removed hose clamps and hoses,removed retainer clips, old pump was stuborn to remove but was able to pry off motor with screwdriver. sanded rust off metal shaft,put on new pump,replaced retainer clips, replaced hoses and clamps. set washer in upright position removed aggitator cap, used 7/16' socket with long extension,unscrewed bolt, pulled off aggitator sleave, removed cog unit, replaced cogs, put sleve back on and tightened bolt. I had the machine outside so I hooked up a water hose and an extension cord, put machine on small load and tested machine . worked like new. also when i finished the test I had noticed earlier that my hose screen had a mineral build up, cleaned that by lightly scraping and used little rust inhibitor that also tackles scales. total time was about 30 minutes. Wife is happy now and I was rewarded later.
Other Parts Used:
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Chris from Morgan City, LA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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broken pump and burned out motor
The repair itself was very simply, probably largely due to the design of the machine which made getting to, and replacing the two faulty parts a cinch. Just unscrew the two screws on the motor brackets which hold the motor down, and remove the brackets. Then remove the two smaller brackets which hold the pump to the motor. Then remove the two clamps and hoses from the pump. Lastly disconnect the power supply from the motor and the pump and motor will then come out as one unit. Simply reverse the process when reinstalling the new pump and motor. I used a bit of oil to lubricate the new motor shaft but I am sure it probably isn't necessary. The job should take no more than half an hour tops.
Other Parts Used:
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Anthony from Webster, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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leak from the front, bottom edge
First I watched the vid, from this website that showed how to replace a pump on the Whirlpool model I have. It was very helpful. Then, on the same web page as the vid for washer pump replacement several DIYers describe how they did the repair and rate how difficult it was. This also was very helpful. The info from these two sources confirmed to me that it was the pump that was leaking. Tilting the washer back far enough so I could see the pump also visually confirmed it was the pump.
If the pump had come off easily I would not have had to take the cabinet off. All I would have had to do was lay the washer on its' back to get the pump off. But noooo, the pump was rusted so tightly to the motors' shaft that I had to be more aggressive, to remove the pump, than the measures mentioned in the vid.
After finally getting the pump off I saw that the end of the motors' shaft had corroded and was misshapened enough so that I had to "persuade" the new pump onto the shaft.
I also ordered these parts (1. Direct Drive Coupling 2. Agitator Repair Kit and 3. Clutch Assembly) after I read in the DIYers descriptions that many of them, who changed their pump, also changed these parts. Since my washer was 15 yrs old it made sense to replace these parts which usually wear out before the pump.
Unfortunately, after I got everything reassembled the new pump leaked more than the old one. Guess I over-"persuaded" the new pump onto the shaft. That, and I don't think the new pump is as well built as the original so it couldn't take much persuasion.
Now I either: 1. buy a new pump and motor or 2. buy a new washer which is what I'll most likely do.
If I had a do-over I would only get the pump. If it worked properly with no leaks, then I would buy the other 3 parts, if it didn't work, I would only be out $40 instead of the $95 I'm out for the 4 items. Being frugal or, as my family says, "cheap," I do have to be careful. There is a point where repairing something old is more a point of pride than good sense. I don't know where that point is and I definitely wouldn't have brought this up if the new pump had fixed the washer.
Also, after struggling for quite some time to put the cabinet back on, I Googled "how do I get a Whirlpool washer cabinet back on?" After watching one of the vids Google answered back-I was able to put the cabinet back on in less than 10 minutes.
I hope this has been helpful. Happy DIYing!
If the pump had come off easily I would not have had to take the cabinet off. All I would have had to do was lay the washer on its' back to get the pump off. But noooo, the pump was rusted so tightly to the motors' shaft that I had to be more aggressive, to remove the pump, than the measures mentioned in the vid.
After finally getting the pump off I saw that the end of the motors' shaft had corroded and was misshapened enough so that I had to "persuade" the new pump onto the shaft.
I also ordered these parts (1. Direct Drive Coupling 2. Agitator Repair Kit and 3. Clutch Assembly) after I read in the DIYers descriptions that many of them, who changed their pump, also changed these parts. Since my washer was 15 yrs old it made sense to replace these parts which usually wear out before the pump.
Unfortunately, after I got everything reassembled the new pump leaked more than the old one. Guess I over-"persuaded" the new pump onto the shaft. That, and I don't think the new pump is as well built as the original so it couldn't take much persuasion.
Now I either: 1. buy a new pump and motor or 2. buy a new washer which is what I'll most likely do.
If I had a do-over I would only get the pump. If it worked properly with no leaks, then I would buy the other 3 parts, if it didn't work, I would only be out $40 instead of the $95 I'm out for the 4 items. Being frugal or, as my family says, "cheap," I do have to be careful. There is a point where repairing something old is more a point of pride than good sense. I don't know where that point is and I definitely wouldn't have brought this up if the new pump had fixed the washer.
Also, after struggling for quite some time to put the cabinet back on, I Googled "how do I get a Whirlpool washer cabinet back on?" After watching one of the vids Google answered back-I was able to put the cabinet back on in less than 10 minutes.
I hope this has been helpful. Happy DIYing!
Other Parts Used:
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Bryant from Jacksonville, FL
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
38 of 49 people
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water leak at pump
1. remove 2 hoses at pump using pliers to open hose clamps and sliding them out of the way.
2. remove 2 retainers holding pump with screwdriver.
3. remove old pump and install new pump
4. clamp pump using retaining clips
5. re-connect hoses
2. remove 2 retainers holding pump with screwdriver.
3. remove old pump and install new pump
4. clamp pump using retaining clips
5. re-connect hoses
Other Parts Used:
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oscar from missouri city, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
35 of 41 people
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Questions and Answers
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Dean
July 20, 2017
Washer fills with water and spins and washes but doesnt drain. Problem with motor? Pump? Something else?
Hi Dean, the symptoms you are experiencing mean you need to replace your direct drive washer pump WP3363394. Please let us know if you have any further question.
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Mel
July 20, 2017
My hubby noticed water leaking from the bottom of our washer so we left it running and peaked under the bottom and it was coming out of the pump (part # WP3363394). Can I be sure that that’s the problem and not a leaky hose or line somewhere since we clearly see the water leaking from the pump?
Hi Mel, if you can see water leaking from the pump WP3363394 of your washing machine you should be confident that replacing it is your best plan of action to fix the leak. I hope this helps!
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Lee
July 20, 2017
Changed the pump 2x and both times it gone bad. Second time I paid but first time was covered. Both times tho the pump froze to the motor shaft. How do I stop this from happening replacing it the third time. I had to cut the pump off with a saw last time.
Hello Lee, the reason this happens is water is leaking and causing the motor shaft to rust. This will then cause the rust to pile on and expand, sticking the pump to the motor shaft. If you would like to prevent this situation we recommend sanding down the motor shaft until all rust is gone, and then apply grease to the motor shaft. This will prevent rust from coming back and lingering. Best of luck with this repair!
22 people found this helpful.
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James
July 24, 2017
Washer fills very slow (no pressure) water just dribbles into tub.
For model number LSW9700PQ2
Hi James,
That is a great question thank you. I would suggest checking the fill hoses to make sure there is nothing built up and blocking them. Also check the valve where the hose connects to the back of the washer and clean out the screens to make sure there is no blockage there. If everything is clean and clear you may need to replace the water valve part number PS11742194. This water inlet valve attaches the water lines to the back of your appliance. The attaching solenoids on the valve open and close according to the desired temperature, or amount of water needed. If it is not opening properly you might have a slow flow of water.
Hope this helps!
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Pete
September 8, 2017
I have a Whirlpool washer and a sock got stuck in the pump. I removed the sock from the pump but it will still not drain. The drum spins fine and the pump visually looks and moves freely with my fingers. Could the sock that jammed the pump have burned out the motor? Is there anyway to test the motor?
For model number 2dlsq7533jq
Hi Pete,
Thank you for the question, If the tub is spinning then the motor should be fine. Sounds like it may have to replace the pump assembly. The sock could have damaged some internal parts.
Hope this helps!
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Signora
August 23, 2017
My washer/combo fills and washes but will not spin or drain. It did have a burning electrical smell before it had problems - the timer perhaps???
For model number LTE5243DQ5
Hi Signora,
Thank you for your inquiry. It could be your timer, but I would actually have you check your drain pump. It sounds like something may have gotten stuck inside the drain pump and burned up the motor. Good luck, I hope this helps!
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Michelle
September 1, 2017
My Whirlpool washer is leaking from the bottom near the pump while draining. At a quick glance, the hoses look good. There is major rust and corrosion around the front clamp (i can't see the back clamp without tipping it over). And there is moisture around the entire clamp after running a load. Should i assume the pump needs replacing or could the moisture be coming from a source dripping down from above? There is no leaking during fill. Thank you.
For model number LSR8444LQ0
Hi Michelle,
Thank you for contacting us. It does sound like it is your pump that is the issue, but your water inlet valve is located at the top of your machine. If you wanted to check that part to make sure that it is not the part that is leaking, I could suggest doing that. I hope this helps. Good luck with your repair.
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Duane
September 23, 2017
I have removed both clips and hoses the pump will not come off. Is it just stuck? Am i ok to force or pry off? I want to make sure i can remove old pump before i order new one. Thanks
For model number LBR2121DW0
Hello Duane, thank you for contacting us. We have a how to video that shows how to remove and install this part, you can follow the link below, hope this helps!
https://www.partselect.com/PS11741239-Whirlpool-WP3363394-Direct-Drive-Water-Pump.htm#RepairVideo
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Mark
October 16, 2019
When washer is in a fast spin it makes a high pitched squealing sound. No grinding noise or other noises just a squeal. Water drains s properly during all cycles.
For model number MHWE300VW12
Hello Mark, thank you for your question. We would recommend checking the belt and pulley and the rear tub bearing for wear and tear. If the squealing is coming from the back of the unit these are the parts that might be the issue. If the unit is only making the noise when the drain and fast spin is happening there might be something stuck in the drain pump, and removing it and cleaning it out should fix the issue. I hope this helps!
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Toni
September 28, 2017
My washer keeps showing a code of e1 and f 6. I don't have the manual. Can someone tell me what it means? It will not get rid of the water or ring the clothes out in the finial rinse. It is a Maytag 2000 series front loader.
Hello Toni,
Thank you for your question. Unfortunately it seems like that error means that you have a motor tachometer error. Which has to do with your main board. You may have to run a diagnostic test. Usually when you take the kickplate off of your machine, there will be a tech sheet inside with that information. You may have to end up replacing your board. Good luck with your repair.
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Related Parts
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11741239
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3363394
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3363394
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