Thermistor

Overload relay accessible from back, by compressor unit. Very easy to change out. Diagram from your site placed defrost thermostat in same area.It wasn't. Found another diagram, showed it in refrigerator light area, took that apart, not there. Yet another diagram showed it in the duct work area at back of refrigerator cabinet. Not there. Finally removed back of freezer compartment, found thermistor and thermostat with the fins. Clipped wires, wired in parts, quick fix. Longest amount of time was spent finding the old parts to replace them. Actual replacement took less than 15 minutes. Refrigerator holding at 35 degrees set on 2 now, better than ever. Total cost, less than $120, doing iy ourselves....priceless.

Remove the light cover. Use a flat head screw driver to push in the tabs on the back of the program mount and pull down to expose the computer board. The Thermistor is clipped on under the vent holes on the right side. Cut both wires to remove the old thermistor strip a 1/4 inch off the remaning wires and the new thermistor wires twist both ends together crimp on the wire caps snap in the new thermistor reinstall the program board until the retainer clips snap into place, slide the light cover back on.

It was great. We replaced the thermistor A little difficult to get to the thermistor but once we found it five minutes. My refrigerator seems happy but we will monitor it and see.

Unplug ref then remove lower(freezer) panel plus trays and thermistor’s cover/holder then remove the evaps cover. I found the evaps all frozen up. Cut and remove old thermistor, strip wires 1/2 inch then cut the new thermistor wires to length and strip 1/2 inch, use the enclosed insulated crimp type connector and put back everything in the reverse order. It works great afterwards.

I initially tested the heating element and defrost thermostat using an ohm meter. the defrost thermostat was incased in ice, so I replaced it first. The refridgerator worked for about a week and then froze up again. I then replaced the thermistor and the unit is working as designed.

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

I'm a pretty handy person generally but I had to call on my engineer neighbor to help. I've never soldered before so I didn't feel comfortable installing the thermistor. I had everything ready for him so all he did was cut the existing thermistor out, strip the wires on the replacement , solder and tape and he was seriously done in 10 minutes! I replaced everything and plugged the fridge in to find that my fridge still freezes everything. I have now ordered the damper control and gasket to hopefully fix this problem.