Product Description
Blower Wheel with Clamp Specifications
This blower wheel comes with a metallic hub clamp to hold it firmly in place.
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Part Videos
Replacing your Maytag Dryer Blower Wheel with Clamp
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Noisy | Too hot
This part works with the following products:
Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo.
This part works with the following products:
Maytag, Jenn-Air, International.
Part# Y303836 replaces these:
AP4294048, 1245880, Y303836, 3-12913, 3-3836, 303836, 312913, Y303836, Y312913
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Joerg B - March 26, 2024
Verified Purchase
Fast Delivery
Worked fine, just disappointed about the cost for the little clamp part that you need too. That should have been included.
Chris B - March 15, 2024
Verified Purchase
Blower Repair
Maytag Dryer is back in working order with a timely repair. Part as described.
David D - December 7, 2023
Verified Purchase
Blower Wheel
As usual in dealing with Parts Select product was in stock, 3 day delivery and was able to restore 20 year old Maytag dryer back to operating condition. 30 minutes for installation and was able to avoid spending $1000 for new model.
Neil S - November 7, 2023
Verified Purchase
Works fine lasts about 2 years
I have a 30 year old maytag washer and dryer that still work well. The original dryer blower lasted 18 years but these ones only last me about 2 years. That said, I am pleased that I can still buy parts for this great Maytag workhorse.
Mario A - October 10, 2023
Verified Purchase
Blower wheel replacement
The part came quickly and fit perfectly!
Howie N - August 17, 2023
Verified Purchase
Perfect Fit
Part was exactly what I needed, how to video was very helpful, saved money by do it yourself.Thanks..
William C - February 5, 2023
Verified Purchase
The right part when we needed it.
It came quickly with all the hardware and fit perfectly.
Jon A - February 4, 2023
Verified Purchase
substantially strong part
This part came quickly, and it was more substantial than the faulty one being replaced. Works just fine.
BRIAN W - February 2, 2023
Verified Purchase
It was easy to repair if you are pretty good with a little Tech experience
This parts fits perfectly because in oem parts original can't go wrong.
Simon A - January 20, 2023
Verified Purchase
Perfect
Im so happy now I can dry my clothes
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.1 / 5.0, 158 reviews.
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electric dryer was rumbling - wheel or belt?
Unplugged dryer. Front came off easily. Removed front of blower. Wheel came off fairly easily - could then see that shaft of motor was circular with flattened side but inside of old wheel was rounded. New wheel popped right on. Took tumbler off so I could clean lint out more easily and get a good view of how the belt threaded through. Put the tumbler back on and reached back with both hands to thread it. Took a half dozen tries until I was sure it was seated correctly and not twisted. Put front... of dryer back on. So far (a week or so) the rumble is gone. Seems blower wheel was the cause of the rumble. Belt didn't seem worn but replaced anyhow.
Other Parts Used:
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Raymond from West Bend, WI
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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The blower fan (nylon) stripped off the motor shaft (steel)
Removed the front cover (screws on bottom 0f face)...removed blower cover....spring pliers to remove and install blower fan. the rest of the time was spent cleaning the inside of the shell as well as the vent. Reassembled and dryer runs better than it has for many years.
Other Parts Used:
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Stephen from Lafayette, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
566 of 573 people
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Loud rumbling noise on dryer startup
I searched the internet and found my symptoms really seemed to indicate a problem with the blower wheel, which was very noisy. Feeling confident that was what I needed, I ordered the blower wheel, and also the tumbler belt (the belt was 12 years old). Both parts were genuine Maytag and arrived quickly. Before the order arrived, I went ahead and UNPLUGGED THE DRYER and disassembled the dryer using the partselect.com helpful parts diagrams and the repair notes of others. This allowed me to confirm the blower wheel was in fact loose on the motor shaft. I removed the old blower wheel and belt. Shop vac'd out the entire dryer cabinet. This way I was able to take my time with preparation, and when the new parts arrived, I was ready to just pop them into place. If you disassemble before you order, you can also determine if the tumbler front guide set and /or rear tumbler roller wheels also need to be replaced (mine did not), but this would have been the perfect time to replace those too. I saved a bunch of money and have the satisfaction of having done this job myself. Dryer works great now.
Other Parts Used:
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Brian from Mechanicsville, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Belt worn and blower wheel loose.
I noticed a rattling noise coming from the dryer. I disassembled the dryer to troubleshoot. I assumed the rollers were bad, but I discovered that the blower wheel was loose on the motor shaft. The rollers were fine. I also discovered the belt was worn.
I ordered a new blower wheel and belt. Replacement was as described elsewhere.
I couldn't get to the screws on the front panel because my screwdriver was too long. So I put a pressure treated 2x4 under the front dryer legs to elevate it. I used pressure treated lumber because that's what was in the garage. Untreated wood would also work.
After removing the front panel screws, the bottom of the front panel needs to be tilted away from the dryer. At about 20-30 degrees of tilt, the front panel will suddenly drop away from the top.
Rotate the front panel to your left so that the wires don't get stretched. It isn't necessary to unplug the wires. But after touching the wires and getting shocked, now is a good time to unplug the dryer. In fact, it would have been better to unplug the dryer before you start any work on it.
Remove the front bulkhead and lint filter housing as a unit. 4 screws hold it to the dryer.
Remove the screws holding the faceplate of the wheel assembly, and remove the faceplate.
Next remove the spring clip from the blower wheel shaft. Then remove the circlip using a circlip plier. The wheel will now slip off the motor shaft.
Put the new wheel on the shaft, making sure to align the flat part of the shaft with the flat part on the wheel. Install the circlip and spring clip.
Replace the faceplate, Note that the perimeter of the face plate goes inside a groove. Install the screws.
Replacing the belt has been covered before, so I'll leave it at that. Just make sure that the belt goes on the proper side of the belt guard.
Install the front bulkhead-lint filter housing. Make sure the lint filter housing lines up with the blower wheel housing and goes inside the felt.
Install the front panel. Make sure the felt doesn't get pinched by the drum.
The first time I disassembled the dryer, it took about 1.5 hours. The second time was only about 45 minutes. The third and subsequent times were even quicker. Practice makes perfect.
I ordered a new blower wheel and belt. Replacement was as described elsewhere.
I couldn't get to the screws on the front panel because my screwdriver was too long. So I put a pressure treated 2x4 under the front dryer legs to elevate it. I used pressure treated lumber because that's what was in the garage. Untreated wood would also work.
After removing the front panel screws, the bottom of the front panel needs to be tilted away from the dryer. At about 20-30 degrees of tilt, the front panel will suddenly drop away from the top.
Rotate the front panel to your left so that the wires don't get stretched. It isn't necessary to unplug the wires. But after touching the wires and getting shocked, now is a good time to unplug the dryer. In fact, it would have been better to unplug the dryer before you start any work on it.
Remove the front bulkhead and lint filter housing as a unit. 4 screws hold it to the dryer.
Remove the screws holding the faceplate of the wheel assembly, and remove the faceplate.
Next remove the spring clip from the blower wheel shaft. Then remove the circlip using a circlip plier. The wheel will now slip off the motor shaft.
Put the new wheel on the shaft, making sure to align the flat part of the shaft with the flat part on the wheel. Install the circlip and spring clip.
Replace the faceplate, Note that the perimeter of the face plate goes inside a groove. Install the screws.
Replacing the belt has been covered before, so I'll leave it at that. Just make sure that the belt goes on the proper side of the belt guard.
Install the front bulkhead-lint filter housing. Make sure the lint filter housing lines up with the blower wheel housing and goes inside the felt.
Install the front panel. Make sure the felt doesn't get pinched by the drum.
The first time I disassembled the dryer, it took about 1.5 hours. The second time was only about 45 minutes. The third and subsequent times were even quicker. Practice makes perfect.
Other Parts Used:
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David from Germantown, TN
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Loud rumbling at startup, periodic rumbling during drying, rumbling after motor stopped
After removing more bolts and screws than I needed to, here's how to replace the blower wheel on the stacked washer/dryer Maytag SG1000.
Turn off the power.
Remove the two screws on the access panel, which is the canted panel just below the dryer door, and remove the panel.
Remove the two screws at the top of the dryer door. These screws are on top of the dryer facing downward, and unless you're Yao Ming, you won't see them without a stepstool. You can then lift up the door and swing it out from the bottom.
There are two wires attached to the door which you should disconnect. You can set the door aside without disconnecting any other wires.
Next, remove the lint filter and the housing assembly it fits into. First, disconnect the ground wire connected to the upper-left corner of the housing, then remove 4 hex-screws accessed from inside the dryer tumbler.
You should take this opportunity to thoroughly remove lint from inside the housing.
The blower housing is now accessible. Remove the screws on the periphery of the blower housing cover (a.k.a. faceplate), and remove the cover.
The blower wheel is held in place by an external retaining ring and by a blower clamp. The replacement blower wheel came with a new blower clamp, and that clamp can be manipulated with a regular pair of pliers. I went out and bought a pair of snap ring pliers to deal with the retaining ring.
After removing the retaining ring and then taking off the blower clamp, I removed the old wheel. The new wheel was a little tough to put on, but after reading the story of the people who used a hammer to break their wheel, I just pushed on it until it popped on. I used my pliers to install the new clamp, then re-installed the retaining ring and the blower housing cover.
Reinstall the lint duct housing, making sure housing duct centers into the blower seal (looks like a felt circle). Reconnect the ground wire.
While you're inside the tumbler, at the front end of the tumbler just below the door there is a black plastic sensor with two metal bars on it called an automatic dry sensor. Fabric softener can coat the metal bars and cause the sensor to not function. Lightly sand the metal bars to remove any buildup.
Reconnect the wires to the dryer door. Reinstall the door by tilting the bottom in first, guiding the clips on the bottom of the door into the slots they fit in, then push the top of the door into position. Reinstall the screws at the top.
Reinstall the access door.
Turn the power back on! Done!
Turn off the power.
Remove the two screws on the access panel, which is the canted panel just below the dryer door, and remove the panel.
Remove the two screws at the top of the dryer door. These screws are on top of the dryer facing downward, and unless you're Yao Ming, you won't see them without a stepstool. You can then lift up the door and swing it out from the bottom.
There are two wires attached to the door which you should disconnect. You can set the door aside without disconnecting any other wires.
Next, remove the lint filter and the housing assembly it fits into. First, disconnect the ground wire connected to the upper-left corner of the housing, then remove 4 hex-screws accessed from inside the dryer tumbler.
You should take this opportunity to thoroughly remove lint from inside the housing.
The blower housing is now accessible. Remove the screws on the periphery of the blower housing cover (a.k.a. faceplate), and remove the cover.
The blower wheel is held in place by an external retaining ring and by a blower clamp. The replacement blower wheel came with a new blower clamp, and that clamp can be manipulated with a regular pair of pliers. I went out and bought a pair of snap ring pliers to deal with the retaining ring.
After removing the retaining ring and then taking off the blower clamp, I removed the old wheel. The new wheel was a little tough to put on, but after reading the story of the people who used a hammer to break their wheel, I just pushed on it until it popped on. I used my pliers to install the new clamp, then re-installed the retaining ring and the blower housing cover.
Reinstall the lint duct housing, making sure housing duct centers into the blower seal (looks like a felt circle). Reconnect the ground wire.
While you're inside the tumbler, at the front end of the tumbler just below the door there is a black plastic sensor with two metal bars on it called an automatic dry sensor. Fabric softener can coat the metal bars and cause the sensor to not function. Lightly sand the metal bars to remove any buildup.
Reconnect the wires to the dryer door. Reinstall the door by tilting the bottom in first, guiding the clips on the bottom of the door into the slots they fit in, then push the top of the door into position. Reinstall the screws at the top.
Reinstall the access door.
Turn the power back on! Done!
Other Parts Used:
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Ed from Long Beach, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Noise, possible low exhaust flow
1 Disconnect dryer from electrical outlet
2 remove vent pipe
3 Tilt dryer backwards and remove front cover bottom 2 philips screws.
4 remove lint assembly and then the fan blower housing with nut driver.
5 with pliers remove retainer clip from fan
6 remove snap ring with pliers or a flat blade screw driver will also work.
7 remove fan
at the same time I replaced the front glides if you do not want to do this then reinstall in reverse order and job is complete.
for glide replacement
1 remove the 4 screws holding the outer ring to the frame of the dryer.
2 drill out old rivits from the back side and then knock out. be careful to only drill rivit and not into metal frame
3 install new new glides makesure you install in correct direction.
4 install pop rivets with stud end on top side of glide. pushing rivet through glide and into the frame ring.
5 pop rivits and make sure they are secure.
6 reinstall ring making sure seal is around ring correctly
7 reintal 4 screws.
8 follow reassembly of blower and lint housing if you changed the fan. if not then just the lint assembly.
good luck the job is really easy and you will save yourself some money
2 remove vent pipe
3 Tilt dryer backwards and remove front cover bottom 2 philips screws.
4 remove lint assembly and then the fan blower housing with nut driver.
5 with pliers remove retainer clip from fan
6 remove snap ring with pliers or a flat blade screw driver will also work.
7 remove fan
at the same time I replaced the front glides if you do not want to do this then reinstall in reverse order and job is complete.
for glide replacement
1 remove the 4 screws holding the outer ring to the frame of the dryer.
2 drill out old rivits from the back side and then knock out. be careful to only drill rivit and not into metal frame
3 install new new glides makesure you install in correct direction.
4 install pop rivets with stud end on top side of glide. pushing rivet through glide and into the frame ring.
5 pop rivits and make sure they are secure.
6 reinstall ring making sure seal is around ring correctly
7 reintal 4 screws.
8 follow reassembly of blower and lint housing if you changed the fan. if not then just the lint assembly.
good luck the job is really easy and you will save yourself some money
Other Parts Used:
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Joseph from Demotte, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Replace blower wheen assembly
I followed the directions given by another poster. Reprinted here with advice at the end.
Unplug the dryer!!!!
Remove two screws from lower front panel. Pull the bottom of the front panel forward. This allows the clips holding top of panel to release. Unclip the wires attached to the door switch on the front panel. Set the front panel to the side. The blower assembly is facing you at lower left.
Remove 4 screws(2 on left & 2 on right) from the drum retainer ring. Set the retainer ring to the side.
Remove the thin metal cover protecting the blower wires. The blower is located on the lower left below the lint screen. Remove the screws holding the blower cover in place.
Use snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring securing the old blower wheel. It is an external snap ring.
Squeeze the spring retainer surrounding the blower wheel shaft with regular pliers and wiggle the blower off.
Put the new blower on the shaft and replace everything in reverse order.
Replace the snap ring.
Replace the blower cover. Be sure the insulation around the blower wheel housing seats properly into the front panel. This keeps hot air flowing up past the lint trap.
Replace the thin metal wiring cover.
Replace the drum retainer ring.
Reconnect the door switch wiring.
Replace the front panel.
Done.
One last hint about a Maytag dryer.
If your drum wiggles out too far the belt on the drum might not stay aligned. There is a groove on the drum. The belt should NOT sit in this groove. It should ride on the drum about an inch in front of the groove!!! It had slipped into the grove on me. Check this out before closing the dryer back up. Otherwise you might find yourself taking the thing apart again.
Also, the eyes on the snap ring had broken off so I had a difficult time figuring that part out. It's at the exact end of the exposed end of the shaft sticking out from the blower wheel. Regular pliers got it off. A lot of my repair time was spent going to the hardware store for a replacement.
Unplug the dryer!!!!
Remove two screws from lower front panel. Pull the bottom of the front panel forward. This allows the clips holding top of panel to release. Unclip the wires attached to the door switch on the front panel. Set the front panel to the side. The blower assembly is facing you at lower left.
Remove 4 screws(2 on left & 2 on right) from the drum retainer ring. Set the retainer ring to the side.
Remove the thin metal cover protecting the blower wires. The blower is located on the lower left below the lint screen. Remove the screws holding the blower cover in place.
Use snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring securing the old blower wheel. It is an external snap ring.
Squeeze the spring retainer surrounding the blower wheel shaft with regular pliers and wiggle the blower off.
Put the new blower on the shaft and replace everything in reverse order.
Replace the snap ring.
Replace the blower cover. Be sure the insulation around the blower wheel housing seats properly into the front panel. This keeps hot air flowing up past the lint trap.
Replace the thin metal wiring cover.
Replace the drum retainer ring.
Reconnect the door switch wiring.
Replace the front panel.
Done.
One last hint about a Maytag dryer.
If your drum wiggles out too far the belt on the drum might not stay aligned. There is a groove on the drum. The belt should NOT sit in this groove. It should ride on the drum about an inch in front of the groove!!! It had slipped into the grove on me. Check this out before closing the dryer back up. Otherwise you might find yourself taking the thing apart again.
Also, the eyes on the snap ring had broken off so I had a difficult time figuring that part out. It's at the exact end of the exposed end of the shaft sticking out from the blower wheel. Regular pliers got it off. A lot of my repair time was spent going to the hardware store for a replacement.
Other Parts Used:
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Neal from Hendersonville, TN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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progressively louder rumble, especially on startup
Watched the video, removed the front panel, removed the 4 screws from the tumbler frame, and removed the blower cover. Snap ring off, old blower fan off, new one on, new compression ring, snap ring on, Put back together. Done.
Old belt and idler were OK. What surprized me was the amount of lint, fuzz, coins and dust in the blower housing. This was potentially a fire hazard and now its working perfectly and some peace of mind from a fire standpoint. The video really made it happen for me.
Old belt and idler were OK. What surprized me was the amount of lint, fuzz, coins and dust in the blower housing. This was potentially a fire hazard and now its working perfectly and some peace of mind from a fire standpoint. The video really made it happen for me.
Other Parts Used:
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Bill from Brighton, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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loud noise in dryer
Took offf front of dryer. Took out screws holding housing to blower fan. Used spring plier to remove spring clamp. Do yourself a favor and buy a spring plier. Made it much easier. Took out old blower wheel & installed new one. Put spring clamp back on & screwed housing back together. Cleaned out dryer with vacuum while it was apart. Put fron back on. Not difficult at all with right tools.
Other Parts Used:
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Harry from Beaver Falls, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Blower wheel was worn, belt was worn, drum support didn't turn freely
Unplugged dryer. Removed top, face and drum. Using snap ring pliers, I removed the old drum supports and installed the new ones. Next I removed the cover to the blower wheel housing. Then using snap ring pliers and regular pliers I removed the worn blower wheel and installed the new one by reverse steps. Lastly the belt. I put the belt around the drum , placed the drum in the dryer and had my son hold it steady as I threaded the belt around the motor and idler pulley. All that's left is to put the face and cover back. The repair was simple and the dryer is running like a champ. I would suggest having some snap rings handy as I had to replace them as well.
Other Parts Used:
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Phillip from Ridgeway, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Questions and Answers
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William
December 12, 2017
How do i tell if the blower wheel needs to be replaced? I took the front off the Maytag dryer and when i turn the blower wheel the drum does not turn. Does this mean the blower wheel needs to be replaced? The dryer is 25 years old. Thanks.
For model number LDG9824AAE
Hi William,
Thank you for your question. The blower wheel is mostly responsible for blowing the heat into the dryer cavity. If the dryer is not tumbling, then there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the tumbler and motor belt, the drum support rollers, the idler pulley wheel and arm, the idler shaft retaining ring, the front glides, the roller shafts and the drive motor. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Josh
February 11, 2018
I believe this is the problem with my dryer, but i can't figure out how to remove the lint trap assembly to be able to take off the cover to get to the blower wheel assembly. Any hints or ideas?
For model number LSE7800ACW
Hi Josh,
Thank you for your question. It looks like we have an installation video for this part: https://youtu.be/i7D5NZ9GPxw . Good luck with your repair.
4 people found this helpful.
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Ron
September 8, 2017
This is a gas fired unit and the blower wheel is stripped from the motor shaft. My unit has sealed blower housing that appears to be glued together. How do I remove this from the drive motor
For model number 41791122310
Hi Ron,
Thank you for your inquiry. You spin the wheel counter clock wise and that will unscrew the shaft of the motor from the housing. Good luck with your repair.
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Suzy
April 7, 2018
When i turn the dryer on there is a loud sound as if the drum needs help starting. But once it starts there is full heat full rotation and minimal sound although still a light sound as if the drum belt is not fully on. Someone suggested that it would be the blower wheel and clamp but it seems more drum related. Any thoughts?!
For model number LDG7400AAW
Hello Suzy, Thank you for your inquiry. We would also recommend checking the belt, idler pulley, and idler pulley arm. Hope this helps!
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Freddie Nash
January 25, 2019
Is this part for a gas or electric dryer?
For model number DE308
Hello Freddie, thank you for your question. This blower wheel is specifically made for the DE308 model. Both gas and electric dryers use blower wheels, but this one is specific to the model you provided. I hope this helps!
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Dwain
November 6, 2019
The blower wheel has gotten extremely hot. It warped the blower wheel and rubbed hard against the housing grinding off the edge of the blower wheel and grinding out part of the housing. What would cause the blower wheel to become so hot ?
For model number LDG 9304AAE
Hello Dwain, thank you for your question. A defective cycling thermostat, Dryer Cycling Thermostat
Part Number: WP3387134, or fuse Thermal Fuse (Limit: 183) Part Number: WP306604 could cause that issue. I hope this helps!
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Dave
January 24, 2022
Blower wheel Y303836 part fits snug on drive shaft, but the three tabs that the clamp squeeze in break after a couple years. When replacing my current part the tabs broke before even running the dryer. Is this the correct part for my dryer? Is yes, what can I do to stop the tabs from breaking?
For model number LDE4000ADL
Hi Dave,
Thank you for your question. Yes, this would be the correct blower wheel with clamp for your dryer. If you would like to place an order for it, customer service is open 7 days a week and anyone will be happy to assist you. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
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Suzette
August 18, 2022
My dryer has ceased to circulate hot air through the lint filter and out of the discharge hose. We have checked the exhaust pathway and it is clean. The top of the dryer is hot, and the clothes are not dry. There are no noises and the drum continues to rotate. Is the blower wheel and clamp the only part I need to order? Thanks!
For model number MEDB400VQ0
Hello Suzette, thanks for your query. The most obvious reason behind blocked airflow through lint filter and exhaust is a clogged exhaust part and damaged lint filter but as you have checked and cleaned it then we are all good there. However, these problems may also happen because of damaged or jammed blower wheels, covers of a dryer vent that are stuck, and also clogs within the dryer unit. Look for some venting hose clogs and hidden inner dryer clogs. If no vent hose and inner clogs are found then the blower wheel is most probably faulty or damaged. In this case the blower wheel compatible with model number MEDB400VQ0 has part number PS11746331. If you have any other follow-up queries please feel free to reach out again.
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Rob
May 6, 2023
I'm checking to see if this Blower Wheel, made for a Whirlpool Dryer will fit as a replacement for my Maytag dryer, model LDG7500ABL which has a damaged blower wheel.
For model number Maytag LDG7500ABL
Hello Rob, Thank you for your inquiry. We show this part as compatible to your model. We hope this helps.
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Edgar
March 24, 2020
Would this blower wheel work on my model?
For model number Kenmore 600 series W10680138E
Hello Edgar,
Thank you for your question. We apologize, but we do not have a parts list available for your model, thus we cannot find any parts compatible to your machine. We suggest getting in contact with the manufacturer to see if they can provide a part number for the part you are looking for. If they provide a part number, feel free to come back to our website to see if we can sell you the part at a lower price. We hope this helps.
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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS2200270
Manufacturer Part Number: Y303836
Manufacturer Part Number: Y303836
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