MDE5500AYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

The dryer disassembly was pretty straightforward. The drive belt slips over the drum and easily prys over the drive and idler pulleys. The drum seal is held in place with the existing metal tabs. The old drum glides had to be drilled out and the new ones pop rivited in easily. Overall a rather simple process and the dryer sounds and drys like new again for minimal expenditure and time. Probably would have cost $200+ had I had a service person do the work.

Took off the front, took thd drum off, removed old belt, placed on new belt ptu everything back together.

I removed the 2 screws that hold the door and removed the door. I then removed all the screws that hold the front panel and removed the front panel. Then I was able to lift (on hinges) the top panel. I then removed the screws that hold the front drum housing, then removed the drum and belt. At that point you have plenty of room to access the idler pulley. I removed the Idler pulley spring. Then I removed the the screw holding the Idler arm and shaft. Reinstalled in reverse order.

Insure the double pole breaker in the breaker box is functioning properly.

At first I thought I could just replace the pulley, but on closer inspection I found that the pulley had become seized on the shaft. I ended up removing the entire bracket (which I should have purchased also) and cutting the shaft off. I manufactured a new shaft from a bolt of the appropriate size and tack welded it to the bracket. It took a little more time than I anticipated. My advice to anyone doing this would be to spend a little extra money and buy the entire bracket and pulley. That would make this about a 15 minute job.

first i removed the screws holding back cover. Then I remeved nut from tumbler roller shaft. Then I slid shaft from roller .I removed roller then replaced with new one. Installed new shaft then replaced back cover. recieved parts from parts direct very promptly & they were the right parts the first time thanks very much

Unplug dryer cord!!! Loosen and removed screws (phillips and hex head) at the back of the console(display). This allows for the removal of the console. Remove control board and replace with new part. The harness wiring is easier installed with the drum removed; 1. Remove dryer lid by taking out 2 screws securing the hinges. 2. Remove 2 screws at the left side to allow removal of the front panel. (Note that there are wirings in the front panel, so it is best to just set the panel close by for rewiring) 3. This expose the 3/8" hex screws securing the hook holding the top panel. Remove screws and lift top panel for removal. 4. Loosen drum belt with the idler and remove drum for easier access to the wirings. 5. Remove old harness and install the new replacement part placing corresponding terminal as the old ones are removed. (Note that the old harness can be completely stripped out then run the new harness-for the experts). While the heating elements and the motor are accessible, check with the multimeter to make sure none is grounded or shorted (remember the condition of the control board may have been caused by high current flow). Replace the drum and set the belt. Install top panel with the retainer hook. Install front panel and the dryer lid. Plug the dryer cord and run the appliance. Good job! Comment: the original control may have a design flaw (relay contact rating) as the components that draw higher amps(current) are fine yet the contacts including the wiring terminations were melted. Do you know if there was a recall on this product? It almost caused a fire. . .

On my maytag dryer I took the door off with two screws, took the front panel off with four srcews, lifted the top panel up a little bit and removed the belt from the "tub" and pulled the tub out. I could easily then access the idler arm and pulley wheel. Due to the age of the dryer, I also replaced the tub belt while it was apart. Reversed the process to put it back together, alot easier than I thought.

Warner

Following the instructions I pulled off the door and front panel. After rotating drum so the broken baffle was at the bottom I used a socket to remove the two screws on either end. I removed the broken baffle and inserted the new baffle in its place. Reinserted the screws, front panel, and door. I do strongly suggest having the manual handy to view the steps. It's available in PDF format.

I simply put the new lint filter in the spot for it inside the door.

Door switch was very easy to replace as it simply snaps in for the outside and you just clip on the two control wires that already have clips on them.

Replaced a bad 240 volt heat relay and the problem was solved.

All you need for a Maytag is a snub nose Philips screw driver. The screws on the front panel are at the bottom angled down, so a regular length Phillip's won't work. Just unscrew the 2 screws, then lift the panel up and out. Careful not to pull out too far, there are 2 wires attached to the switch. The replacement switch is NOT an exact copy of the old one. My Maytag is over 30 years old and it only had 2 prongs on the switch. The new one has 3. Don't let that throw you. It is the same size. Just attach, 1 wire to the bronze connector & the other to the silver. Push the switch into the door opening, re-attach the door. Total time 20 minutes. Saved well over $100 in a service call. Anyone with an IQ above freezing can do it.

Followed the directions on the video. I recommend changing both tumbler wheels and idler pulley when you have unit apart as well as the drive belt. When I opened the dryer cabinet I immediately saw what my scraping noise was being caused by. A screw holding a baffle in the dryer tub had backed out and was scraping the cabinet wall on each rotated pass. Like I said, when you have the cabinet apart you might as well change parts that are going to fail. The repair was very easy and now I have many more years of service with my dryer. Had I opened the dryer before to see what parts I needed I would have seen the loose screw.

Disassembled dryer and replaced drum support roller and shaft. That took care of the noise but I still replaced the belt and idler pulley while I had it apart.